Sport Today

Is there a FAQ for rec.windsurfing, if so could someone direct
me to it!

I am a beginner (one time windsurfer, had to walk back from
the corner of a lake!) who needs to know what to look
for in an inexpensive used windsurfer).

Also,does anyone know of a windsurfing group in Austin, TX -
like where do these people hang out so I can get connected
and stop asking dumb questions.

Craig

Since I was recently a beginner and still have most of my beginner
equipment, I would like to make an attempt to answer your request.
I have less than $1500 invested in my equipment including 3 boards,
9 sails, wetsuit, roof rack and other assorted stuff, so at least I
might qualify as someone who pays attention to "inexpensive".

I've watched prices of used equipment around the San Francisco Bay
Area and it seems that a good price for a complete beginner board
that is 5 or more years old is around $200.  This is usually a 12
foot board with retractable centerboard that weighs around 40 pounds
and includes mast, boom and sail.  The sail is typically around 5.5
square meters.

Make sure the board is complete, with no broken parts.  It is hard
enough to find replacement parts for more recent equipment in an
area with lots of windsurf shops.  It is very difficult to find
parts for old equipment.  I've had to fabricate a few things for
two of my older boards.

Look for cracks in the board or other damage.  You don't want to get
a board that lets water in.  Simple scrapes can be easily repaired.
I would avoid boards that are old enough that the centerboard does
not retract into the board or that attach the mast base by expanding
a piece of ***.  Such boards are usually too old to get parts for
or to use newer sails with.

Check that the fin is not damaged.  I don't know the names of the
different fin mounting systems, but it is a good idea to look for a
board that uses a method that is still in use today so that you can
get replacement fins.  All of my boards use the type with a pin at
the back of the fin and one***that holds the front in place.
(Is this a Tuttle fin box?)

Clamp-on booms are significantly better than tie-on booms.
Adjustable-length booms are generally better than fixed length long
booms.  If you're buying older equipment, you can add a clamp-on
head to many round booms.  I changed two sets of O'Brien booms to
use a Chinook clamp on head for $25.00 each.  It made rigging
faster and eliminated the "floppy boom" problem.  With tie-on booms
I often had to go back and tighten it up again after sailing for a
little while.

Check that the mast has an end-cap so that it doesn't let water in
at the top.  Check for mast damage.

Make sure the sail is not ripped or otherwise damaged and watch out
for transparent sections that are scratched so badly that you can't
see through them.

All modern sails have multiple battens to help keep the shape.
O'Brien beginner boards still come with a 5.4 sail with one batten
at the top.  Sails without battens are easier for beginners to use
because you don't have to worry about popping the battens to the
correct side of the mast when you turn around.  Sails with battens
are easier to use when you are moving.

It's a definite plus if you can get both a big sail and a small sail
with the board, although once you get really hooked, you'll end up
with a bunch of sails anyway.  :-)

I would appreciate it if those more knowledgeable than me would
correct any misleading information in the above, or elaborate an any
areas where I didn't provide enough information.

---

Sun Microsystems

A "progressing intermediate" according to Windsurfing Magazine.

I'd strongly recommend getting a setup with a full battenned
sail (4 or more full length battens), but without camber
inducers (little triangle shaped blocks that attach the
battens to the mast.  By rigging the sail with a little
extra outhaul, the battens can be pulled slightly off the
mast, so that they are easy to flip.  But, the battens will
still make the sail much more stable, and easy to control
when there are little gusts of wind.  This is probably more
important for a beginner than for an intermediate sailor.

Greg Russell

It's good to hear from you again.  I get the same impression, most
of the posters here appear to have a pretty afflunet life style, check
out some of the discussions about North sails in this group.  

I think your FAC is pretty good.  The soft sail thing is really only
good the first 15 minutes of your first lesson, then even a beginner
would probably be better off with a hard sail.

Just F anybodys I,  I just sold an old (1988) Fanatic 330 (11'2")
with a non-clamp-on adjustable boom, mast and 5.5, 6.2, 7.0, and 8.0
sails.  I figured all this stuff was just junk and sold the hole bit
for $150.  There wasn't anything wrong with the stuff, it was sailable,
just old and worn.  I put an add in the paper.  My phone started ringing
at 7AM the morning I put the add in, and the stuff sold to the first person
to come and look at it.  I guess maybe I sold too cheap.

Generally somebody will use a board like this about one season or
twenty or so times until they get enough skill to get on a short board.
You can get a new beginner set up complete for about $500 from O'brien,
but you'll sell it in a year.  Like you said I'd advise buying an old
poly board, you can get'em cheap, they're hard to break and when you're
ready for another board you can throw them away, or sell'em even cheaper
to somebody else.

8'10" Bailey jump, 9'9" Sailboards Maui
Wt 165#, Ht 6'3", Usually sail on high desert lakes near SLC in Ut
Go short or go home