Sport Today

by **Tommy Silv** » Fri, 15 Sep 1995 04:00:00

Has anyone ever had a problem getting invisible fiberglass
slinters in their skin? My girlfriend has a Screamer that seems to
leave annoying splinters mostly on our forearms and bellies. We
have considered that they could be coming from the mast but
really doubt that. If the splinters are coming from the board,
what can be done to seal or sand the suckers off? any advise
would be appreciated.

Tommy Silver, Charleston ,SC

by **rjacks** » Sat, 16 Sep 1995 04:00:00

I'd bet the glass is coming from the mast as I don't think Mistral has used fiberglass
(at least anywhewre near the surface) in about ten years. Best thing to do for this
condition, wherever it's coming from is to get some "West System" Epoxy resin (2 part)
and some West system thinner. Mix a small amount and thin it fairly heavily and apply
thin coats to the mast or those areas of the board you suspect.
I'd guess it's coming from the boom reinforcement area of the mast as this is common on both
fiberglass/epoxy, and carbon masts (especially Fiberspar) as a layer of fiberglass or two is
added to the outside of the mast as reinforcement. Also if you have a carbon boom or
fiberglass fins these also could be sources.
West epoxy is the most compatable resin as it doesn't attack polyester, most foams, or any other
epoxies that I am aware of. Hope this helps sailquik

by **Mike Eglingto** » Sat, 16 Sep 1995 04:00:00

Quote:

> West [System] epoxy is the most compatable resin as it doesn't attack
> polyester, most foams, or any other epoxies that I am aware of.

Unfortunately, I have an instance of incompatibility for you, in fact, I am
trying to figure out how to deal with it. I reinforced a Mistral Diamond
Head's footstrap area with West Systems epoxy and then painted the whole thing
with Pettit Easypoxy marine epoxy, and the areas where there was West Systems
epoxy haven't dried (after 6 days!), where as the other areas dried in 24 hrs
as claimed on the paint tin. The West Systems epoxy had been drying for more
than a week, and was well sanded after drying.

That's just for info: I had never suspected that it would happen.

Now, anybody know how to get the stuff to set? I figure the only thing I can
do is wipe it off with paint thinner (it is still that soft), and start
again. Some people have recommended Krylon epoxy paint: anybody used this
stuff on West Systems epoxy yet? I don't want another incompatibility.

Mike

Michael L. Eglington

Tel: (415) 497-2316

by **sailq..** » Tue, 19 Sep 1995 04:00:00

Mike:
Let me get this straight. The paint (Pettit) you put over the West epoxy didn't dry??? I my original posting I
was suggesting that the West Epoxy get along with "substrates", not overcoats. I'd guess that the West
epoxy was not fully cured and was still "outgassing" some of the catalyst (hardener) chemicals and that
these chemicals "killed" the similar hardening/drying chemicals it the Pettit product. Next time get some
of the white pigment that is available for the West resin and you won't have to paint at all.
As to the Krylon, I've used a couple of different sparay paints to cover minor ding repairs and it works
really well for me. I think the krylon has the best color match is why it's suggested so much.
Sorry about the "uncure/incompatability" sailquik

by **Mike Eglingto** » Tue, 19 Sep 1995 04:00:00

Hey Sailquik,

Quote:

> Let me get this straight. The paint (Pettit) you put over the West epoxy
> didn't dry??? I my original posting I was suggesting that the West Epoxy get
> along with "substrates", not overcoats.

True, true, I realised this, but it was something I hadn't expected or
experienced. I commented because it is of general interest: I sure would have
liked to know before :-(

Quote:

> I'd guess that the West epoxy was
> not fully cured and was still "outgassing" some of the catalyst (hardener)
> chemicals and that these chemicals "killed" the similar hardening/drying
> chemicals it the Pettit product.

As I said, I let it dry for about 10 days (just because I didn't get a chance
to work on it). Someone has suggested that West System is really sensistive to
the mixture ratio. I didn't use their pumps, but I did estimate ratios with a
ruler. I can't believe it is that sensitive. Live and learn I guess, at least
it seems like the Pettit will be easy to get off, after which I will test some
different paints before painting the whole thing.

Quote:

> Next time get some of the white pigment
> that is available for the West resin and you won't have to paint at all.

Does the pigment make the resin UV resistant, the guy at West Marine said that
the West Systems resin wasn't UV res. Also, the board had nicks that I had
fixed all over, so the whole thing needed a paint. Lucky I didn't pay anything
for it, I found it in the rubbish and was fixing it so I had something to mess
around on on light wind days (first at home and later on the water!).

Cheers
Mike

Michael L. Eglington

Tel: (415) 497-2316

by **IAMFLA** » Tue, 19 Sep 1995 04:00:00

I injected my finger with carbon fiber splinters four years ago. They
are still there. You get used to 'em. I check with the Doc., he said to
leave them in.

Hope this helps

Flash

by **Ian Knigh** » Wed, 20 Sep 1995 04:00:00

I had a mast which left my forearms covered in itchy red spots
after hauling the sail on. I got another one but you could try
another coat of resin on it to stabilise the fibres.

cheers Ian.

by **Wolfgang Soerg** » Fri, 22 Sep 1995 04:00:00

[snip]

Quote:

>As I said, I let it dry for about 10 days (just because I didn't get a chance
>to work on it). Someone has suggested that West System is really sensistive to
>the mixture ratio. I didn't use their pumps, but I did estimate ratios with a
>ruler. I can't believe it is that sensitive. Live and learn I guess, at least
>it seems like the Pettit will be easy to get off, after which I will test some
>different paints before painting the whole thing.

Just to say it again: Be aware that all epoxy systems which are made
for laminating (not the 5-minute epoxies) are EXTREMELY sensitive
with respect to the mixture ratio. A deviation of 1% can mean curing times in
the order of weeks, more no perfect curing at all. The laminate may seem
to be hard / dry nevertheless, but the strength is greatly reduced.

You must mix very accurately. Further, the volume and the weight mixing ratio
are not idenddical ! (hardener is lighter than resin if memory serves).

Hang loose !

Wolfgang

by **Lee Hen** » Wed, 27 Sep 1995 04:00:00

Quote:

>Hey Sailquik,

>> Let me get this straight. The paint (Pettit) you put over the West epoxy
>> didn't dry??? I my original posting I was suggesting that the West Epoxy get
>> along with "substrates", not overcoats.

>True, true, I realised this, but it was something I hadn't expected or
>experienced. I commented because it is of general interest: I sure would have
>liked to know before :-(

>> I'd guess that the West epoxy was
>> not fully cured and was still "outgassing" some of the catalyst (hardener)
>> chemicals and that these chemicals "killed" the similar hardening/drying
>> chemicals it the Pettit product.

>As I said, I let it dry for about 10 days (just because I didn't get a chance
>to work on it). Someone has suggested that West System is really sensistive to
>the mixture ratio. I didn't use their pumps, but I did estimate ratios with a
>ruler. I can't believe it is that sensitive. Live and learn I guess, at least
>it seems like the Pettit will be easy to get off, after which I will test some
>different paints before painting the whole thing.

>> Next time get some of the white pigment
>> that is available for the West resin and you won't have to paint at all.

>Does the pigment make the resin UV resistant, the guy at West Marine said that
>the West Systems resin wasn't UV res. Also, the board had nicks that I had
>fixed all over, so the whole thing needed a paint. Lucky I didn't pay anything
>for it, I found it in the rubbish and was fixing it so I had something to mess
>around on on light wind days (first at home and later on the water!).

>Cheers
>Mike

>Michael L. Eglington

>Tel: (415) 497-2316

I'm comming in late to this discussion but there is one other thing
you should be aware of. The curing process leaves a residue. The
WEST literature calls this "amine blush". It goes on to say that
this is water soluble. Once the surface will not be indented when
you press with your thumbnail, use water and a scotchbrite pad to
loosen the amine blush. Then wipe with a paper towel to remove it.
They do not recommend sanding unless the epoxy has not fully cured.
Sanding the amine blush tends to clog the sandpaper. The amine blush
has a wax like appearance and will likey cause the next layer of epoxy
or paint not to adhere.

Call them up. They have always been extremely helpful and willing
to give advice.

Lee

by **Ola Bran** » Fri, 29 Sep 1995 04:00:00

Quote:

> [snip]

> >As I said, I let it dry for about 10 days (just because I didn't get a chance
> >to work on it). Someone has suggested that West System is really
sensistive to
> >the mixture ratio.

Someting more to watch out is if the epoxy is old. If it is old it can
take a very long time for it to "dry". The harderner usually gets more
yellow/brown when it gets old and the resin more stiffer (not as liquid).
If it is old you can heat it up to around 60 degres and it will be as new
again!

hang on Ola Brandt

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