Sport Today

Turns out the guy I was hoping for locally doesn't do board work
anymore.

That means that if I decide to install footstrap inserts, it'll
be me and The Board Lady's web pages.

It all seems pretty straightforward - the only big "gotcha" being
how the batch of resin is.... too hot, breaking down the
surrounding styrofoam.

But four questions:
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1) Sounds obvious to me, but nobody mentioned it:  the
   cassets are installed so that their top surfaces are
   below the deck of the board by the thickness of the
   multiple layers of glass that will go over top of
   them.   Right?

2) When putting on those multiple layers of overlapping
   glass, you start with the narrowest layer first and
   work outwards.   Correct?

3) Is there more than one type of insert?   I've got
   the Chinook ones that look tb molded plastic,
   hollow underneath between***holes.

   Before I started, I was expecting to see just
   blocks of some sort of fairly solid stuff that
   got installed into the board first and then
   drilled later - after all the glassing was done.

4) This is the biggie.   Assuming that I use the
   Chinook inserts - which already have***
   holes - how does one prevent the holes from filling
   up with resin when the insert cassettes are glassed
   over?
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--
PeteCresswell

You would want to get West system epoxy or equivilent and use the slow
cure hardner and you won't cook the foam. Adding microbaloons to the
resin will also dissipate the heat of the resin.

# 1 You want to glue in the inserts so there is a little of the insert
sticking up and once the glue has set, grind the insert flat with the
deck.

#2 yes

#3 I guess chinook is popular and gives multipe holes. I have always
used the round ones and drilled a single hole in the middle. The
chinook ones should work great.

#4 You can fill the holes with wax but be careful you dont contaminate
the surface where the resin glass won't stick. I usually use flour to
fill the holes.

I might add to roughen up the insert with very heavy grit sandpaper
before epoxy is applied.  This will give the epoxy something to hold
on to and reduce the potential for bond problems between insert and
epoxy.

In lieu of using wax, some suppliers provide inserts which have a drop
of silicone adhesive covering the***hole. After all is done, a
countersink is used to expose the***hole and remove the dab of
silicone.

A tiny piece of masking tape will do the job - the resin would go into
the screwhole, and it's marked for you through the glass so you can
pierce the holes later (all it takes is a nail and a light tap of a
hammer - don't even need a drill).

-Andreas
http://SportToday.org/