HELP - Damaged Drops GOT 8'8"

HELP - Damaged Drops GOT 8'8"

Post by Wolfgang Soerge » Sat, 10 Jun 2000 04:00:00


Quote:

> Dear friends:

> I am a happy owner of a Drops GOT 8'8". Unfortunately last weekend I had a
> little accident and I damaged my board with the harness hook.

> The pictures attached will show the damage.

> Would you please be so kind to provide me with some advices on how to fix
> it.

The damage looks like it's gone through to the core. So first thing is
to make sure that there is no water left in the board and the damged
area is completely dried out. The following repair job isn't too
complicated but if the board is still relatively new and you don't have
experience with epoxy you may want to consider having it done
professionally.
The damage aso seems too substantial to me to just slap on some
dingstick or marinetex and sail on.
As a first sep ypu need to fill up the void. One method would be to
remove all damged material, insert some eps foam, on top of that high
density PVC foam (that's the brownish stuff you see), both using epoxy
resin filled with some microbaloons. Another method would be to leave
all material in place, inject some slow curing (!!!!) epoxy with
microbaloons into the gaps (no unfilled epoxy or you may melt the core).
In both cases: Let cure, sand the skin in a area 5 -10 cm larger than
the damaged area, glass on 2 - 4 layers (more if you removed the skin)
of 4-6 oz. glass. Sand. If you did not remove the skin, use a thick
putty from epoxy+microbaloons to fair out the rail. Sand. Apply a layer
of epoxy as topcoat. Sand. Paint.
Quote:

>  [Image]
>  [Image]
>  [Image]
>  [Image]

A pointer to a website with the pictures would have been more liked by
some..
--
Wolfgang
 
 
 

HELP - Damaged Drops GOT 8'8"

Post by w.. » Sat, 10 Jun 2000 04:00:00

Hi Stevo,

It looks like you did the same thing I did to my board with my
boom--crushed the rail, lots of broken fiberglass, etc.

My job was up near the nose, so it wasn't a big deal to get
the shape right. It looks like yours is back on the board, so
it might be more important to fit the exact outline.

What I did (on my epoxy ASA skin Veloce):

* Route out any broken fiberglass. If there are any
  small, loose pieces of foam underneath, get them out as well.
  Sand off about a half inch of the ASA skin down to the fiberglass
  around the ding. Its thin on the bottom, so be careful!
  You should have a sizeable hole in your board now with the foam
  exposed. Ouch!
* Let the board dry out for as long as it takes to get the water
  out (mine was pretty dry, if it's wet, you need to ask about
  board spinners or take it to a shop...)
* Lay the board on its edge. Build a "mold" out of ordinary masking
  tape by laying the tape lengthwise along the profile of the board,
  then half-hooping it widthwise for support. You can always sand it
  back down, so err on it being too big. Mix up some *slow* curing
  epoxy with microspheres to a thick shampoo consistency and fill the
  mold, maybe even over several applications. You
  don't want to put in too much epoxy (or use fast curing) or it
  will go thermal and melt the foam in your board! I used
  ordinary West epoxy and applied an ice compress to cool things
  down (danger :-). Once the epoxy has become reasonably gelled,
  remove the tape.
* Let it cure overnight. Sand the epoxy to the level of the existing
  fiberglass.
* Cut two pieces of 6 oz fiberglass cloth to fit the epoxied
  ding and overlap the exposed fiberglass. Mix up some epoxy.
  Dip the fiberglass in the epoxy and apply both layers. Use
  a tongue depressor or similar to draw the excess epoxy out
  of the fiberglass and remove air bubbles. This is important.
  The less excess epoxy in the fiberglass skin the stronger it
  is, and air bubbles are always bad!
* Let it cure overnight. Lightly sand the fiberglass level again.
* Apply a thin coat of epoxy over the fiberglass to make sure
  it's watertight.
* Let it cure. Sand it level to the board. At this time you
  may want to use some kind of epoxy putty to fill/sand/build
  up the rail to the existing profile and make it smooth.
* Paint the area with a good outdoor white spray paint (to protect
  the epoxy from the sun).
* Match the board color as best you can and paint over it.

After doing it, I can say that it isn't very hard to do right
(ie waterproof), as long as you take your time. Like Wolfgang
said, it is hard to make it look *good* (ie resale value).

The biggest concern you should have is melting the foam core
from the heat of the epoxy filler. Use slow curing or have a
way to cool your board down.

My repair is still going strong after 10 or so sessions and
one direct boom hit. YMMV.

Bill

Quote:

> > Would you please be so kind to provide me with some advices on how
to fix
> > it.

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

 
 
 

HELP - Damaged Drops GOT 8'8"

Post by Stev » Sun, 11 Jun 2000 04:00:00

Test

--
The Wind May Bless You,
Stevo

Quote:
> Dear friends:

> I am a happy owner of a Drops GOT 8'8". Unfortunately last weekend I had a
> little accident and I damaged my board with the harness hook.

> The pictures attached will show the damage.

> Would you please be so kind to provide me with some advices on how to fix
> it.

> Thanks very much in advance to all of you.
> Stevo


 
 
 

HELP - Damaged Drops GOT 8'8"

Post by Stev » Sun, 11 Jun 2000 04:00:00

Thank you everybody !!!!

--
The Wind May Bless You,
Stevo

Quote:
> Dear friends:

> I am a happy owner of a Drops GOT 8'8". Unfortunately last weekend I had a
> little accident and I damaged my board with the harness hook.

> The pictures attached will show the damage.

> Would you please be so kind to provide me with some advices on how to fix
> it.

> Thanks very much in advance to all of you.
> Stevo