DMM Wirelocks for trad?

DMM Wirelocks for trad?

Post by Matt Ligge » Thu, 15 Jul 2004 23:09:50


I'm in the middle of purchasing my first trad rack, and it's time to
buy some biners.  These will be for clipping to pro and for extending
placements.

Has anyone used DMM's Wirelock ( http://tinyurl.com/67t3j ) in such a
situation?  They look great, but the narrow "neck" looks like it might
get crowded with my 1" tubular slings.  MEC recommends using 12mm
Dyneema ( http://tinyurl.com/6f5rb ), but nobody else recommends this.

My other (more conventional) option is the Kong Ultratop Wire #905
( http://www.kong.it/pr_ocon.htm ).  Both have a 10kN gate-open
strength, wire gates and are very light, but DMM's combination of
keylock and wire gate seems slick.

Thanks in advance.
--
*---------------------------------++---------------------------------*

|         Bloomington IN          ||      http://pobox.com/~mml      |
*---------------------------------++---------------------------------*

 
 
 

DMM Wirelocks for trad?

Post by Guillaume Dargau » Fri, 16 Jul 2004 05:43:56

Quote:
> I'm in the middle of purchasing my first trad rack, and it's time to
> buy some biners.  These will be for clipping to pro and for extending
> placements.

I hate wirelock biners for a bunch of reasons. Particularly for trad climbing:
- little wire stoppers get stuck in the wire and you have to fight to get them out.
- the nut tool gets stuck also
- they don't last very long at all: you sit on them, the wire bends a little and you can throw
them away. Or you take a fall with the wire pressed against the rock. Or press them a little too
much in the pack...
I find them useless. And annoying.
--
Guillaume Dargaud
http://www.gdargaud.net/
  "And then Adam said, 'What's a headache ?'."

 
 
 

DMM Wirelocks for trad?

Post by Michael Hu » Fri, 16 Jul 2004 06:16:26

Quote:

> I'm in the middle of purchasing my first trad rack, and it's time to
> buy some biners.  These will be for clipping to pro and for extending
> placements.

> Has anyone used DMM's Wirelock ( http://tinyurl.com/67t3j ) in such a
> situation?  They look great, but the narrow "neck" looks like it might
> get crowded with my 1" tubular slings.  MEC recommends using 12mm
> Dyneema ( http://tinyurl.com/6f5rb ), but nobody else recommends this.

> My other (more conventional) option is the Kong Ultratop Wire #905
> ( http://www.kong.it/pr_ocon.htm ).  Both have a 10kN gate-open
> strength, wire gates and are very light, but DMM's combination of
> keylock and wire gate seems slick.

> Thanks in advance.

I love the WireLocks. I also only use the new 8mm "shoestring" spectra
slings mostly so I can't speak to crowding since it's a non-issue with
those. They're pretty big so I can't imagine it'd be a problem.

They're awesome for ice when trying to clip with frozen gloved hands.
I use them exclusively over my neutrino's for ice.

Check out the new Helium's too. Notchless and a bit lighter than the
DMM's. I don't like the super-high spring tension though and they
don't fit my hand as well....

-Mike

 
 
 

DMM Wirelocks for trad?

Post by Jay Tanzma » Wed, 21 Jul 2004 01:55:18

Quote:

> Check out the new Helium's too.

Wild Country has issued a recall on the Heliums, but I don't have the details.

-Jay

 
 
 

DMM Wirelocks for trad?

Post by Shilajit T Gangul » Wed, 21 Jul 2004 02:05:06

: > Check out the new Helium's too.

: Wild Country has issued a recall on the Heliums, but I don't have the details.

Details are here http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/

Rumor has it the wiregate may not close completely when the biner's
weighted, giving you only open-gate strength.  (Neutrino's do this
occasionally whe you opposite and oppose them, though due to rubbing on
each other)

Looks like BD isn't the only company beta-testing on the public.

 
 
 

DMM Wirelocks for trad?

Post by an » Thu, 22 Jul 2004 11:47:04

Quote:

> I'm in the middle of purchasing my first trad rack, and it's time to
> buy some biners. Has anyone used DMM's Wirelock ?

climbed with a few partners who had them. i dont like how they feel in
my hand, but thats personal, i suppose.

Quote:
> They look great, but the narrow "neck" looks like it might
> get crowded with my 1" tubular slings.

hoo-boy. if youre shelling out for fancy-schmancy pretty biners like
the dmm wires you can darn sure afford some better slings. do yourself
a favor and go sewn spectra. or sewn nylon. or tied 9/16 nylon, but 1"
tubes? geez louise, you're a glutton for punishment!

re: another poster who had bad things to say about wirelocks. (CD,
perhaps? cant remember). Are those comments re: wire-keylock biners,
or all wiregates?

i can't reccomend wiregates enough. wire'locks' i havent used enough
to know about. the one thing that makes me wonder is the little hole
the wire-lock sits in. i always think this would fill up with snow and
ice in the first ten minutes of a wet winter climb, but its just
theory. no experience.

i think wire*gates* are the bees knees,
anthony

 
 
 

DMM Wirelocks for trad?

Post by Mad Do » Thu, 22 Jul 2004 18:22:51

Jay Tanzman says...

Quote:

>> Check out the new Helium's too.
>Wild Country has issued a recall on the Heliums, but I don't have the details.

Not a recall, just a warning to keep them clipped in so they don't float away.