Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by Tom Styb » Tue, 18 Apr 2000 04:00:00


I haven't been able to find a description for two notations that are
used next to route names in this guide. I assume a star next to a route
name indicates the author has climbed it; is that correct? What is the
meaning of the notation that I'll describe as crossed sabers next to
some route names? An example route for both symbols would be Xenomorph
on Deville 3 Pinnacle.

Also, picking out a few routes from this guide is, in itself, quite an
endeavor. Any route suggestions would be appreciated. I've focused on
Lumpy Ridge (I've noted possibles including Osiris, Pancake Stack and
Eumenides among others) but would not be against any of the other crag
areas (have been eyeing Xenomorph or its neighbors). Would probably
start in the 5.6 or 7 range up to and including 5.10, single or
multi-pitch.

Thanks,
Tom
Remove "ZAP." to e-mail.

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by patrick verno » Tue, 18 Apr 2000 04:00:00

Quote:

> I haven't been able to find a description for two notations that are
> used next to route names in this guide. I assume a star next to a route
> name indicates the author has climbed it; is that correct?

a star means it is a good route, although sometimes I question rossiter's
judgement.

Quote:
> What is the
> meaning of the notation that I'll describe as crossed sabers next to
> some route names? An example route for both symbols would be Xenomorph
> on Deville 3 Pinnacle.

I don't have a clue, I have wonderd myself.

Quote:

> Also, picking out a few routes from this guide is, in itself, quite an
> endeavor. Any route suggestions would be appreciated. I've focused on
> Lumpy Ridge (I've noted possibles including Osiris, Pancake Stack and
> Eumenides among others)

I would say osiris, pankake stack, and eumenedies are the worst climbs for
their grade on lumpy.  Osiris will feel like solid 5.8 with plenty of
grungy wide crack climbing, I know very few people who like the route.
Eumenedies has one good pitch (the crux) and one decent one (before the
crux), the first 5.8 pitch is probably the least enjoyable 5.8 pitch I have
ever climbed, akward, loose, dirty, and fragile.  Do mainliner instead, it
is ten times better.  I haven't done pankake stack, I haven't heard that it
is anything to write home about.  For routes in the 5.7- 5.8 range
definately do pear butress - the best 5.8 in the planet.  White wale and
hiatus on the left book are totally stellar, globs of blobs is pretty fun,
and batman and robin is really fun although easy (it has a couple 5.8
variations.)  If you're looking for something longer, mainliner is it, it
is one of the best routes on lumpy.  Being able to climb in the 5.9-5.10
range opens up alot more climbs on lumpy.  Most everything on the book is
awesome.

Quote:
> but would not be against any of the other crag
> areas (have been eyeing Xenomorph or its neighbors).

Xenomorph is fun, the first pitch has a 5.9 move 20 feet above the ground,
then you clip a bolt (no pro before that.).  Lumpy has way better routes.
Dags in beanland is supposed to be awesome, some of the lines on maggregor
slab are really fun too.

Quote:
> Would probably
> start in the 5.6 or 7 range up to and including 5.10, single or
> multi-pitch.

> Thanks,
> Tom
> Remove "ZAP." to e-mail.

You're welcome.

-hope this helps
patrick vernon

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by John Byrne » Tue, 18 Apr 2000 04:00:00

Quote:

> > What is the
> > meaning of the notation that I'll describe as crossed sabers next to
> > some route names? An example route for both symbols would be Xenomorph
> > on Deville 3 Pinnacle.

> I don't have a clue, I have wonderd myself.
> Xenomorph is fun, the first pitch has a 5.9 move 20 feet above the ground,
> then you clip a bolt (no pro before that.).

You guys need more coffee.  The X means a fall results in serious injury
or death.  Usually R.R. puts in "s", serious; "vs", very serious; and
"x"
as in skull and cross-bones.

- Lord Slime

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by Linda Lis » Tue, 18 Apr 2000 04:00:00

Quote:


> > > What is the
> > > meaning of the notation that I'll describe as crossed sabers next to
> > > some route names? An example route for both symbols would be Xenomorph
> > > on Deville 3 Pinnacle.

> > I don't have a clue, I have wonderd myself.
> > Xenomorph is fun, the first pitch has a 5.9 move 20 feet above the ground,
> > then you clip a bolt (no pro before that.).

> You guys need more coffee.  The X means a fall results in serious injury
> or death.  Usually R.R. puts in "s", serious; "vs", very serious; and
> "x"
> as in skull and cross-bones.

> - Lord Slime

Actually, he uses s and vs in the guidebook..  The symbol in mention appears
about two or three times in the guidebook next to climbs that aren't runnout,
and it is alot larger than you're standard x sign.  maybe its just a typo,
rossiter seems to have alot in his books.

    -Patrick Vernon

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by Tom Styb » Wed, 19 Apr 2000 04:00:00

I'm working on the bottom of my morning cup right now. Any more than one
doesn't do me any good at all.

It's not an "X" though perhaps that's what it's meant to be - he doesn't
explain it. He makes a point of explaining s and vs for runout and
leader fall potential. None of the routes with the symbol have the s or
vs. No matter how good the guide is in other respects, ambiguity is a
writer's sin.

Tom

Quote:

> You guys need more coffee.  The X means a fall results in serious injury
> or death.  Usually R.R. puts in "s", serious; "vs", very serious; and
> "x"
> as in skull and cross-bones.

> - Lord Slime

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by John Byrne » Wed, 19 Apr 2000 04:00:00

Quote:


> > You guys need more coffee.  The X means a fall results in serious injury
> > or death.  Usually R.R. puts in "s", serious; "vs", very serious; and
> > "x"  as in skull and cross-bones.

> Actually, he uses s and vs in the guidebook..  The symbol in mention appears
> about two or three times in the guidebook next to climbs that aren't runnout,
> and it is alot larger than you're standard x sign.  maybe its just a typo,
> rossiter seems to have alot in his books.

Hmmm... Are they all on Crags routes?  The Crags have shitty rock
that breaks.  Perhaps it's a designation for choss!

- Lord Slime

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by Tom Styb » Wed, 19 Apr 2000 04:00:00

The routes with the symbol are:

Xenomorph, Deville 3 Pinnacle
Living Dead, Right Book

What do they have in common? Runout to the first piece / groundfall
potential perhaps?

Quote:

> Hmmm... Are they all on Crags routes?  The Crags have shitty rock
> that breaks.  Perhaps it's a designation for choss!

> - Lord Slime

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by bldr mat » Wed, 19 Apr 2000 04:00:00

The star is a recommended route.

Quote:
> What is the meaning of the notation that I'll describe as crossed

sabers next to some route names

I've wondered this also...I think it might be Rossiters favorite
picks...he obviously likes Xeno since it's on the cover and another
picture and he put the thing up.

Quote:
> Any route suggestions would be appreciated.

Osiris is a stout crack climb...very much fun and I would recommend it
to anyone who likes crack climbs, its no harder than 5.7 (unless you
have never climbed cracks) and is one of the best climbs I've done.
Yes it's wide for the first 2 pitches but just don't wear a pack while
attempting the squeeze chimney (like I did...made it a bit harder), the
final pitch from the fang on up is absolutely killer.  White whale is
another excellent crack climb...did it a few weeks ago and got stormed
off the third pitch but the first 2 pitches are stellar.  Pear Buttress
is supposed to be the BOMB, and Mainliner also...Euminides looks really
good as does Chrome plated*** syringe and conads gonads on Twin
Owls...
Lumpy rules.

--
bldr matt

Sent via Deja.com http://SportToday.org/
Before you buy.

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by Kai Lars » Thu, 20 Apr 2000 04:00:00



Quote:
>Also, picking out a few routes from this guide is, in itself, quite an
>endeavor. Any route suggestions would be appreciated. I've focused on
>Lumpy Ridge (I've noted possibles including Osiris, Pancake Stack and
>Eumenides among others) but would not be against any of the other crag
>areas (have been eyeing Xenomorph or its neighbors). Would probably
>start in the 5.6 or 7 range up to and including 5.10, single or
>multi-pitch.

>Thanks,
>Tom
>Remove "ZAP." to e-mail.

Kor's Flake is a great route.  The third pitch is one of the best 5.7+
pitches you will ever climb.  

Bring a large cam (#4 Friend) for the off-width second pitch, and
don't use it too early.  

Kai  


http://www.dimensional.com/~kai/

 
 
 

Q: Rossiter's "RMNP, The Crag Areas"

Post by Crack Bo » Fri, 21 Apr 2000 04:00:00

Quote:

> Kor's Flake is a great route.  The third pitch is one of the best 5.7+
> pitches you will ever climb.

> Bring a large cam (#4 Friend) for the off-width second pitch, and
> don't use it too early.

Try Melvin's Wheel and bring a fishin' pole.

Crack "Booty Call" Boy