"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Houston Claud » Sun, 16 Aug 1998 04:00:00


Just picked up a paperback copy of The Climb, by Anatoli Boukreev, and am
awestruck by the pomposity plastered over it.  Most of the photos are of
Anatoli, and they've got 'look at the hero' one liners all over the
covers... specifically, what a big hero Anatoli is/was, and what a goof Jon
Krakauer is/was.  Strikes me as a little... uh... biased.  That's a kind
way of putting it.

I haven't read it yet, but I'm about to start as soon as I post this.  I
hope this book isn't the self-serving barrage of chest thumping that I fear
it to be; I enjoyed Into Thin Air, and would like to read an objective
account of the climb from a different perspective.  Got a feeling that's
not what I'm holding in my hands right now.

Anyone know what the story is between Krakauer and Boukreev?  Seems to be
some bad *** there.  Any glaring discrepancies between their accounts?

 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Mad Do » Sun, 16 Aug 1998 04:00:00

Quote:

>Just picked up a paperback copy of The Climb, by Anatoli Boukreev,
>and am awestruck by the pomposity plastered over it.  Most of the
>photos are of Anatoli,

Really?  Of the 25 photos in the book, Anatoli is in 7 of them and he's
only close-up in 2 of them.  Your math sucks, dude.

Quote:
>and they've got 'look at the hero' one liners all over the covers...

Be more specific - my copy has nothing even close to that.

Quote:
>specifically, what a big hero Anatoli is/was, and what a goof
>Jon Krakauer is/was.

Really?  Do be specific and accurate.

Quote:
>Strikes me as a little... uh... biased.  

So do you, to me.

Quote:
>I haven't read it yet, but I'm about to start as soon as I post this.

Speaking of bias, you appear to be well stocked.  Do you ever make it
past the cover of books you don't like?  Lord Slime must be out
climbing, because if he'd seen this post, he probably would have called
you a moron.  And I would have agreed.

Quote:
>I hope this book isn't the self-serving barrage of chest thumping
>that I fear it to be

You mean like your post?

Quote:
>I enjoyed Into Thin Air, and would like to read an objective account
>of the climb from a different perspective.  Got a feeling that's
>not what I'm holding in my hands right now.

We don't want to hear about what you're holding in your hands, although
I'm sure it's relatively tiny, like your mind.

Quote:
>Anyone know what the story is between Krakauer and Boukreev?  Seems
>to be some bad *** there.  Any glaring discrepancies between
>their accounts?

Yes, there are discrepancies.  Some of them, such as Krakauer's account
of what Anatoli wore to the summit, seem to cast doubt on John's honesty
or accuracy.  You have it - just READ THE DAMN BOOK!

Mad "here we go again" Dog

 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Houston Claud » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00

Quote:
> Really?  Of the 25 photos in the book, Anatoli is in 7 of them and he's
> only close-up in 2 of them.  Your math sucks, dude.

I guess we have different copies.  13 pictures in mine, 7 of Anatoli.  Math
looks good to me.

Quote:
> Be more specific - my copy has nothing even close to that.

"As the climbers of the 1996 Mt. Everest disaster vanished into thin air,
one man had the courage to bring them down alive..."  Little swipe at
Krakauer there.
"Here is his amazing story... of a modern-day hero..."
"Head Everest Expedition Guide" in big red type on the front.  Seems a
little egocentric.

Quote:
> Speaking of bias, you appear to be well stocked.  Do you ever make it
> past the cover of books you don't like?  Lord Slime must be out
> climbing, because if he'd seen this post, he probably would have called
> you a moron.  And I would have agreed.

Did you miss the part where I said I was about to start reading?  Or did
you just pay attention to the parts you disagreed with?

Quote:
> You mean like your post?

Yeah.... like my post.  I wrote all of that to make myself feel bigger, was
it that obvious?  Sounds like you can relate, how hard would it have been
for you to say "I don't agree, here's why."  Speculating on the size of my
***/brain (possibly one and the same) didn't do much to get your point
across.

For what it's worth, the book is good so far.

 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Alpinist » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00

I don't believe Anatoli had anything to do with the layout of the cover and
photos for the paperback version of his book "The Climb" seeing as he was
killed last Christmas on the south face of Annapurna. I met him a month before
he was killed and he seemed a genuine sort, one who dedicated his life to the
mountains. See the New 1998 American Alpine Journal for Galen Rowells take on
"The Climb." Informative and written with the perspective of someone who has
been out there himself and knows the objective dangers of this game. Both Into
Thin Air and the Climb and IMAX book all give a different and informative
account of what happened that day and night in May of 1996 and by reading all
of them, lessons can be learned by all, not only mountaineers, on how to
conduct oneself in this life.

Quote:
>>>"Do what thy manhood bids thee do, from none but self expect applause. He

noblest lives and noblest dies who makes and keeps his self made laws." Capt.
Sir Richard Francis Burton<<<
 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Dbaler » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00

Quote:
>Just picked up a paperback copy of The Climb, by Anatoli Boukreev, and am
>awestruck by the pomposity plastered over it.

I have both and read both.  I suggest you do to before you decide.  And it
appears you have not followed this issue elsewhere.  You might consider doing
that too.  I tend to agree with Mad Dog on this one.  Do you homework.
 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Mad Do » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00

Quote:

>>Really?  Of the 25 photos in the book, Anatoli is in 7 of them
>>and he's only close-up in 2 of them.  Your math sucks, dude.
>I guess we have different copies.  13 pictures in mine, 7 of Anatoli.
>Math looks good to me.

I guess this makes a good case for buying or borrowing the original
hardcover copy.  Still, unless your paperback has completely different
photos, it contains only two close-ups of Anatoli.  I still don't see
how you look at the images and conclude that the book has "pomposity
plastered over it".

Quote:
>>Be more specific - my copy has nothing even close to that.
>"As the climbers of the 1996 Mt. Everest disaster vanished into
>thin air, one man had the courage to bring them down alive..."  
>Little swipe at Krakauer there.

That's your opinion.  I do not see this as any kind of cheap shot at
John.

Quote:
>"Here is his amazing story... of a modern-day hero..."

Some of us don't disagree with this assessment.  The thing is, Anatoli,
at least after his descent, did act heroically.  It's hard to argue with
that.  His and Fisher's strategy for guiding can and has been openly
critiqued but, having never guided in that type of environment do not
have the experience base to come to a valid conclusion.

Quote:
>"Head Everest Expedition Guide" in big red type on the front.  Seems a
>little egocentric.

Well, that was his title.  What's the big deal?

Quote:
>Did you miss the part where I said I was about to start reading?

No.  That was the one sentence that caught my attention the most
strongly.  Muddy Waters sang: "You can't judge a book by looking at the
cover" but here you've done just that.

Quote:
>Or did you just pay attention to the parts you disagreed with?

Parts?  I only disagreed with one part - the whole post.

Quote:
>I wrote all of that to make myself feel bigger, was it that obvious?  

Not really.  You instead proved the contrary.

Quote:
>how hard would it have been for you to say "I don't agree, here's why."

It's trivial being nice and polite.  So what?  Do you think your post
was nice and polite to those that value Anatoli's memory?  Hell no.

Quote:
>Speculating on the size of my ***/brain (possibly one and the same)
>didn't do much to get your point across.

Are you calling yourself a***head?  On the contrary, I think I got my
point across very clearly.

Quote:
>For what it's worth, the book is good so far.

Gee thanks, excellent review.

If you search Deja News, you'll find plenty of opinions about the
various written accounts.  Of the posts I read, I felt most rec.climbers
were down on Anatoli and the way he chose to guide.  My problem with
Krakauer is that he makes certain statements, such as describing
Anatoli's clothing as being inadequate, when in fact he was wearing
standard high-altitude gear.  I have a hard time understanding how John
could make this mistake, since he is a very experienced climber, knows
modern gear, etc.  It may seem like nitpicking, but the point is that
the clothing discussion is part of John's effort to prove that Scott and
Anatoli made critical decision errors that lead to the disaster.
Because of the above, I have lost some degree of trust in Krakauer.

Mad "party on, I'm finished" Dog

 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by im4.. » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00

Of course you are making the assumption that Krakauer is telling the
only correct version, not expressing just expressing his opinions in
"Into Thin Air". Toli is a hero in many eyes.
 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by im4.. » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00

well said mad dog.
 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Dingus Milktoas » Mon, 17 Aug 1998 04:00:00

I know exactly what you mean. I just picked up this book entitled, "Royal
Robbins; Spirit  of the Age, the Biography of America's Most Distinguished Rock
Climber." Also printed on the cover was a sentence attributed to some bloke
named John Gill, which reads, "A masterpiece that tells the story of a great
individual and a golden age of American adventure."

Is this the kind of book cover pomposity you're talking about? Imagine the
hubris of this person! I scanned the book, and nearly every picture either
contained Robbins or was taken by him. What arrogance! How dare a person who is
the subject of a book have a personal picture or two (or 50 in the case of
Robbins) placed within! I too haven't actually read this book, but since I've
already made my mind up as to what I'll find based upon this shocking cover,
I'll probably just save my time and spend it here commenting instead.

DMT

 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by Dingus Milktoas » Tue, 18 Aug 1998 04:00:00

I picked up this book again this morning (my, the world looks different without the
haze of ***!) just to see what my impression would be. I was shocked all over
again. Definitely a pompous cover. I have to assume this Royal Robbins dude was
some kind of ego-maniac. Sheesh! And to think I was actually going to read this
thing!

DMT

Quote:

> I know exactly what you mean. I just picked up this book entitled, "Royal
> Robbins; Spirit  of the Age, the Biography of America's Most Distinguished Rock
> Climber." Also printed on the cover was a sentence attributed to some bloke
> named John Gill, which reads, "A masterpiece that tells the story of a great
> individual and a golden age of American adventure."

> Is this the kind of book cover pomposity you're talking about? Imagine the
> hubris of this person! I scanned the book, and nearly every picture either
> contained Robbins or was taken by him. What arrogance! How dare a person who is
> the subject of a book have a personal picture or two (or 50 in the case of
> Robbins) placed within! I too haven't actually read this book, but since I've
> already made my mind up as to what I'll find based upon this shocking cover,
> I'll probably just save my time and spend it here commenting instead.

> DMT

 
 
 

"The Climb" = "My Climb"?

Post by John Byrn » Tue, 18 Aug 1998 04:00:00

Quote:


> >I haven't read it yet, but I'm about to start as soon as I post this.
> Speaking of bias, you appear to be well stocked.  Do you ever make it
> past the cover of books you don't like?  Lord Slime must be out
> climbing, because if he'd seen this post, he probably would have called
> you a moron.  And I would have agreed.

Mad Dog's right.  This is a classic.  I bet this guy claims
to buy Playboy magazine for the articles too.

- Lord Slime, fingers too sore to type much.