: Myself and my partner who are solid 5.9 leaders who have done one small
: aid pitch in our lives are planning to climb the nose in the second week
: of May 1995.
: The question I want to ask is this to ambitious?
Yes, but not outrageously. I just started climbing 5.10 at the end of 1979.
My partner and I climbed alot of 5.10's (mostly in Eldo) in 1980. We had
almost zero aid experience (maybe 100' of easy aid). In October 1980 we did
the Leaning Tower, Half Dome (Regular Route), and the Salathe on El Cap.
: We have been getting
: together the gear and plan to start aiding routes in Eldorado in the new
: year and go down to the Black canyon of the Gunnison in March/April.
I wouldn't spend too much time on aid; a couple days should be plenty. Have
you climbed in Yosemite much? I'd practice CRACKS. Start climbing some
5.10 cracks before you get on El Cap. Of course you should practice jugging
and hauling too.
: What is a good aid route in the black canyon with the objective of the
: nose in mind? Where can we get beta as there doesn't seem to be any
: What are the chances of hitting a storm on El Cap in May? I would also
: appreciate any other advice anyone has to for a begineer wall climber.
The Black Canyon has worse rock, probably worse weather, a much worse
approach, and if you have to bail off you also have to hike out those damn
gullies! Maybe you should use El Cap as practice for the Black!!!
If you do go to the Black, maybe you should pick a mostly free route and try
to move fast. Get used to aiding small sections of an otherwise free pitch.
Scenic Cruise is excellent. Journey Home is supposed to be good and it's a
bit easier and shorter.