Red Rocks-The Great Red Book

Red Rocks-The Great Red Book

Post by Steve Prout » Thu, 06 Apr 2000 04:00:00


Hey,
        Anyone familiar with the routes: The Great Red Book, The Nevada
Book, and Split Crack.  They are located on the Southwest side of Calico
Hills.  I noticed them in the Urioste Guide, but there wasn't much info.  
I was wondering if they were worth doing, took good pro, and what the
descent was (prefer walk-off).  
Thanks,
Stephen
 
 
 

Red Rocks-The Great Red Book

Post by oldfatf.. » Thu, 06 Apr 2000 04:00:00


Quote:
>Anyone familiar with the routes: The Great Red Book, The Nevada
>Book, and Split Crack.

ClimbingTopos.com can lead you to a topo of the Great Red Book.  I know
people that say it is decent but I haven't done it.  You can rap or
walk off, supposedly.

Fatty

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Before you buy.

 
 
 

Red Rocks-The Great Red Book

Post by GaryFi » Thu, 06 Apr 2000 04:00:00

Quote:
>Anyone familiar with the routes: The Great Red Book, The Nevada
>Book, and Split Crack.  They are located on the Southwest side of Calico
>Hills.  I noticed them in the Urioste Guide, but there wasn't much info.  
>I was wondering if they were worth doing, took good pro, and what the
>descent was (prefer walk-off).  

The Great Red Book is one of best 5.8's in Red Rock. Two pitches up a stunning,
wavelike dihedral, a view of the whole of Red Rock, and above the Black
Corridor/Gallery Social Circle which can be visited either to or fro. I've done
it a number of times and for three of my partners it was either their first
climb outdoors or their first multi-pitch climb. It lends itself well to
beginner trad climbers, especially on the first pitch where climber and belayer
are visible to one another. The climb ascends the corner after a little face
climbing at the start. The new Swain guide has the route move left onto the
face 20' below the 1st belay but you miss much by not staying in the corner and
climbing into the small pod almost directly across from the belay. I have
enjoyed countless minutes of mirth watching the second attempt to extracate
themselves from the pod. My brother said, "watch me, I'm just going to jump
onto the face" :^))

The start of the second pitch is kinda run-out (by RR standards) but pro is
available to back up the few bolts.

Watch rope drag! Especially around the big horn 2/3 the way up the first pitch.

When it's hot it's a good, shady morning climb. When it's cold it goes into the
sun in the early afternoon.

Easy walk off left (west) down the gully.

Gary

 
 
 

Red Rocks-The Great Red Book

Post by Hector Bricen » Thu, 06 Apr 2000 04:00:00

Yes very nice climb indeed.
the layback section can take big protection, so if you never used your #4
camelot, here is a place to get it scratched.
the descent is via a walk-off.
someone took one of the bolts the last belay ledge (or you can rap off one
bolt if if you want)

Hector


Quote:
> >Anyone familiar with the routes: The Great Red Book, The Nevada
> >Book, and Split Crack.  They are located on the Southwest side of Calico
> >Hills.  I noticed them in the Urioste Guide, but there wasn't much info.
> >I was wondering if they were worth doing, took good pro, and what the
> >descent was (prefer walk-off).

> The Great Red Book is one of best 5.8's in Red Rock. Two pitches up a
stunning,
> wavelike dihedral, a view of the whole of Red Rock, and above the Black
> Corridor/Gallery Social Circle which can be visited either to or fro. I've
done
> it a number of times and for three of my partners it was either their
first
> climb outdoors or their first multi-pitch climb. It lends itself well to
> beginner trad climbers, especially on the first pitch where climber and
belayer
> are visible to one another. The climb ascends the corner after a little
face
> climbing at the start. The new Swain guide has the route move left onto
the
> face 20' below the 1st belay but you miss much by not staying in the
corner and
> climbing into the small pod almost directly across from the belay. I have
> enjoyed countless minutes of mirth watching the second attempt to
extracate
> themselves from the pod. My brother said, "watch me, I'm just going to
jump
> onto the face" :^))

> The start of the second pitch is kinda run-out (by RR standards) but pro
is
> available to back up the few bolts.

> Watch rope drag! Especially around the big horn 2/3 the way up the first
pitch.

> When it's hot it's a good, shady morning climb. When it's cold it goes
into the
> sun in the early afternoon.

> Easy walk off left (west) down the gully.

> Gary

 
 
 

Red Rocks-The Great Red Book

Post by Eldofre » Sat, 08 Apr 2000 04:00:00

It is a route worth doing. It was 2 ptiches w/ varied climbing. Mostly gear but
a bolted slab section. We walked off from the top going climbers left. Do It.
Not having a topo made it just that more interesting.

Peter