If you have not done a grade 5 - You better not be doing a Grade 6!!!!

If you have not done a grade 5 - You better not be doing a Grade 6!!!!

Post by Rocksta » Wed, 15 Sep 2004 23:47:09


Over the years I have been blown away by climbers that try El Cap or Half
Dome with no Big Wall Experiance.

They put themselves and everyone else in danger.

You should not be learning how to jug at the base of the Nose,
I have seen this.

Their should be some type of law, no South Face of Washington -  no
El Cap or Half Dome.

You are not ready until you learn the basics.

Thats Big Wall, free climbing in the Yosemite is also a problem.

Gym climbers should not be learning trad on Cathedral Peak!
I have seen this. Six parties, spending hours leading pitches that should
take 15 min.

Rockstar

 
 
 

If you have not done a grade 5 - You better not be doing a Grade 6!!!!

Post by Jesse Brow » Thu, 16 Sep 2004 03:41:57

bwahahaha. Just because someone has not been on the column or the leaning tower
does not mean they don't have the skills and know-how to safely (is that
possible?) summit el cap or half dome - and I know people with far more wall
experience than what you suggest with horribly scary technique.

I agree that you shouldn't be learning to jug on the nose - but you shouldn't
be learning to jug on the WFLT either.

I just soloed Mescalito (topped out a week and a half ago) - first wall, first
time in yosemite, first time on anything bigger than grade III... but I was
fully prepared, and never had a technical problem I was unready for - and I
had trained for far worse. Did it in decent time too, for a soloist.

Anybody can be slow, regardless of experience level - the newbs just seem to
pick the more public places to get in the way. ;)

Quote:

> Over the years I have been blown away by climbers that try El Cap or Half
> Dome with no Big Wall Experiance.

> They put themselves and everyone else in danger.

> You should not be learning how to jug at the base of the Nose,
> I have seen this.

> Their should be some type of law, no South Face of Washington -  no
> El Cap or Half Dome.

> You are not ready until you learn the basics.

> Thats Big Wall, free climbing in the Yosemite is also a problem.

> Gym climbers should not be learning trad on Cathedral Peak!
> I have seen this. Six parties, spending hours leading pitches that should
> take 15 min.

> Rockstar

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have the makings of an aid climber my friend."

 
 
 

If you have not done a grade 5 - You better not be doing a Grade 6!!!!

Post by Eugene Mi » Thu, 16 Sep 2004 06:15:22

Unless your name is Peter Haan.

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If you have not done a grade 5 - You better not be doing a Grade 6!!!!

Post by Nate » Thu, 16 Sep 2004 06:43:00

"Jesse Brown"

Quote:
> bwahahaha. Just because someone has not been on the column or the leaning
tower
> does not mean they don't have the skills and know-how to safely (is that
> possible?) summit el cap or half dome - and I know people with far more
wall
> experience than what you suggest with horribly scary technique.

Indeed - some have it and some don't.

Quote:
> I just soloed Mescalito (topped out a week and a half ago) - first wall,
first
> time in yosemite, first time on anything bigger than grade III... but I
was
> fully prepared, and never had a technical problem I was unready for - and
I
> had trained for far worse. Did it in decent time too, for a soloist.

Your story is actually pretty typical of people who arrive in Yosemite from
locations flatter.  Some fly, some don't.  I could ring off countless
stories.  Just depends how motivated you are, I guess.

I thought I was pretty cool after doing a VI on my first climbing trip out
there, especially being from Minnesota.  My next biggest route was probably
the 3rd Flatiron.  But fortunately the climbing world is much bigger than
Yosemite's sunny walls and well worn and documented trade lines - otherwise
I'd have gotten bored and quit long ago.

- Nate

 
 
 

If you have not done a grade 5 - You better not be doing a Grade 6!!!!

Post by kell » Fri, 17 Sep 2004 08:54:10

Quote:

> Over the years I have been blown away by climbers that try El Cap or Half
> Dome with no Big Wall Experiance.

(snip)

> Their should be some type of law

(snip)

Over the years I have been blown away at how many old-tyme climbers
who spray far and wide about the wacko dangerous shit they got away
with back in the day want a crapload of rules and regulations for
anybody getting into it now.

omg, I just responded to a Batten troll.  I feel so...dirty.