Wayne & Jim have more or less got the point that I intended
with my little morality play about the busted quickdraw sling.
For me, that revenant is an object for just such a meditation:
momento ***up. Of *some* kind, surely.
(Eric sent me a post offline doubting that a half-twist in a
quickdraw sling would make any practical difference. Anybody
have an opinion on that? This was a *short* sling, about 6".
Anybody in San Jose Ca area interested
in rigging a drop test over the holidays?)
One *does* see all *kinds* of interesting stuff as one wanders
about looking over people's shoulders, looking at the tracks they
leave behind. Some good thoughts; some no-thoughts-at-all.
So also on Thanksgiving, I'm watching a pair go up Swan Slab Gully,
5.5, right off flat sandy ground next to Yosemite Lodge.
With enough on the rack to be doing Steck-Salathe, or something.
He's putting in pieces about every two feet. Maybe he's just
practicing with the gear, but he's not testing it, just throwing it
in and climbing up past it. Now I guess my *point*, is, if the
guy has so little confidence in himself that he needs pro every
other rung on a stepladder, what *can* he be thinking all that pro
is gonna *do*? How can he have confidence that he did it right?
It must be some kinda mojo for him.
*My* problem (aside from not enough time to travel to where the
rocks are, nearly often enough) is that emotionally I don't trust
the pro at all. I guess I could overcome that, but it's not clear
to me how to *intellectually* evaluate my safety, either, or how
to go about learning more. Hooo do you trust? *So* many ways
to do it wrong.
So what I'm *doing*, which approach might be of interest to other
learning climbers, is to consider exposure and solo within
my limits (about 5.8). Builds judgement, brains, and maturity.
Gets me to plenty interesting places. Provides good adreneline
from time to time. Saves *lots* of time and money.
And I *am* getting better.
I *sure* understand where are the places where I *want* pro.
(And I intend to learn how to do some. Little by little.)
But the main thing is, it keeps that attitude Wayne was talking
about right there in your face:
> Meditate constantly on the danger.
> Think about it at night. Meditate on it on the approach. Face the risk
> squarely. Constantly evaluate whether it is worth it. Some might argue
> that this is a distraction from making the moves. To the contrary,
> it is an integral part of making the moves....