Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Post by soultyran » Wed, 06 Mar 2002 23:24:20


Does anyone have any info on Indian Creek style crack climbs at Red
Rocks?  I know of the majority of climbs out there; I'm looking for
one pitch climbs as close as possible to parallel sided cracks.

Thanks,

Chris

 
 
 

Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Post by Lord Slim » Thu, 07 Mar 2002 00:51:07

Quote:

> Does anyone have any info on Indian Creek style crack climbs at Red
> Rocks?  I know of the majority of climbs out there; I'm looking for
> one pitch climbs as close as possible to parallel sided cracks.

The closest thing I can think of is Mazatlan in BVC.
Bring a couple small nuts.  (From the TR...)

MAZATLAN, 10+
-------------
It looks like a crack climb, but the 10d crux is a combination of face,
layback and technical stemming.  The pro is daunting; the crux moves
are 5 - 8 feet above a #2 RP which is protecting you from a groundfall.
I really wanted another one!  However, I crank through, place a cam
and cruise the upper 120' of beautiful stemming and jamming.

- Lord Slime

 
 
 

Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Post by Mad Do » Thu, 07 Mar 2002 03:05:40


Quote:
>Does anyone have any info on Indian Creek style crack climbs at Red
>Rocks?  I know of the majority of climbs out there; I'm looking for
>one pitch climbs as close as possible to parallel sided cracks.

Atman at Yin/Yang
Meister's Edge near the 2nd pullout
The Fox in Calico Basin

These all probably have more feet outside the crack than the cleanest IC routes,
but you'll be jamming all appendages aplenty.  Too bad you restricted this to
one pitch routes - I hear that Cloud Tower has great crack climbing.  There's
some jamming on Triassic Sands and also on Desert Gold, both in Velvet.  I've
been told that Lady Wilson's *** has some sustained wide stuff, with a
tree-climbing crux.  Sounds abusive, I'd probably love it.

 
 
 

Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Post by Bob » Sat, 09 Mar 2002 05:04:10

Mad Dog says...

Quote:
> Too bad you restricted this to
> one pitch routes - I hear that Cloud Tower has great crack climbing.
There's
> some jamming on Triassic Sands and also on Desert Gold, both in Velvet.

if my memory serves me well, pitch 2&3 of Ixtlan on Whiskey Peak are cracks
with parallel sided sections. The climb is memorable. I don't know about the
state of the fixed gear though ...
 
 
 

Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Post by Lord Slim » Sun, 10 Mar 2002 00:21:29

Quote:

> if my memory serves me well, pitch 2&3 of Ixtlan on Whiskey Peak are cracks
> with parallel sided sections. The climb is memorable.

Oh, yeah.  The last pitch of Our Father is memorable too.

- Lord Slime

 
 
 

Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Post by Bob » Sun, 10 Mar 2002 02:29:40

Quote:

> Oh, yeah.  The last pitch of Our Father is memorable too.

I do not know the climb. Tell us about it.
 
 
 

Crack Climbing in Red Rocks, NV

Post by Lord Slim » Mon, 11 Mar 2002 02:00:43


Quote:

> > Oh, yeah.  The last pitch of Our Father is memorable too.

> I do not know the climb. Tell us about it.

It's got a nice 5.7 first pitch, then the "Prayer Pitch", 5.9R, then the
just-like-Indian-Creek pitch.  It's an open book, hands, thin hands
and fingers, 5.10+.  Take a lot of cams for this one.

It's next to Ixtalan, in Black Velvet.  Two rope rappels.

- Lord Slime