Eldo-Green Slab variation

Eldo-Green Slab variation

Post by Jeff Amat » Thu, 07 Nov 2002 02:02:56

I was in Eldo again on a visit to Boulder a couple of Saturdays ago,
just before the big snowstorm.  We were going to do Rewritten or Zot or
something but there were parties on that part of the wall, so we went up
and did the Green Slab direct.  

Could someone help clarify the variation to the third pitch of the Green
Slab route?  The Green Slab direct  has a fun first pitch with a small
roof, and an easy second pitch that gets you to a ledge.  The ledge has
a large tree on the left, with a bunch of slings.  On the right/center
part of the ledge is a nice crack with lots of chalk.  This is what I'm
assuming is the normal Green Slab third pitch.  

The variation, which I think I did,  starts on the arete above the tree
on the left side of the ledge.  You can basically walk up the arete for
a few moves, then traverse right on very thin footholds with a sidepull
handhold and clip a 1/4" bolt.  Then another exciting thin move to the
right to get into a crack system (that is still to the left of the main
Green slab crack).  This crack is very thin, has poor stances and some
jams and some layback moves.  It takes you up and to the left, to grab a
few jugs at the top and move left into an alcove just left of the main wall.

The Rossiter topo in Best of Boulder doesn't really show this variation
very well, and the bolt looks misplaced on the topo, so I'm wondering if
this WAS the correct variation to the Green Slab, does anyone do this
variation, what's the accepted rating.

Thanks,

--
Jeff Amato