Biners, biners, Biners

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Rufus Nag » Sun, 02 May 1993 06:20:14


        I am about to start buying my own rack instead of borrowing my
partners gear. The firt thing I am going to buy are a bunch of quickdraws.
The question of straight/bent has been addressd previously, and I will prob.
opt for a dozen straight gait Omegalite II(on sale at REI for $5.49 ea.) I was
wondering if anyone out there has used these in particular. comments?
        Also, has anyone used the BD Finn's: are they significantly easier to
clip. worth the money? Please keep the answers specific...I don't want to start
another 20 msg thread.
Thanks,

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Bruce Hildenbra » Wed, 05 May 1993 03:02:50

Quote:

>    I am about to start buying my own rack instead of borrowing my
>partners gear. The firt thing I am going to buy are a bunch of quickdraws.
>The question of straight/bent has been addressd previously, and I will prob.
>opt for a dozen straight gait Omegalite II(on sale at REI for $5.49 ea.) I was
>wondering if anyone out there has used these in particular. comments?

If it were my money, I would blow off the Omegalite II's and buy the
Black Diamond Lite D's.  They are cheaper(a dividendable $5.35), just
as light and a much more versatile carabiner.  And, I think they are
manufactured better(i.e. last longer).

Bruce

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Brad Ho » Tue, 04 May 1993 16:09:00

        You will be getting what you pay for, cheaply made biner.  I
purchased a few of these and found them to have loose, ill fitting
gates, unfinished pins, rough, unfinished edges.  If I remember
correctly I even rejected about 7 of them in the store before I settled
on two that I wanted.  Do a side by side comparison with a Black Diamond
biner of the same type and you will see what I mean.
                        BRAD

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Fabian Schonho » Sat, 08 May 1993 02:49:26

Quote:

>If it were my money, I would blow off the Omegalite II's and buy the
>Black Diamond Lite D's.  They are cheaper(a dividendable $5.35), just
>as light and a much more versatile carabiner.  And, I think they are
>manufactured better(i.e. last longer).

>Bruce

The BD ligth D's are $6.00 or $5.50. The OmegaliteII are $5.25. Sure the
D's are more versatile, but if you just want to do free climbing or Sport  
Climbing, then the OmegaliteII are nicer to have. The D's are 1.9 oz, the
OmegaliteII are 1.7 oz. In quantity, it adds up!!

Fabian.-

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Bruce Hildenbra » Sat, 08 May 1993 05:11:33

Quote:

>>If it were my money, I would blow off the Omegalite II's and buy the
>>Black Diamond Lite D's.  They are cheaper(a dividendable $5.35), just
>>as light and a much more versatile carabiner.  And, I think they are
>>manufactured better(i.e. last longer).

>>Bruce

>The BD ligth D's are $6.00 or $5.50. The OmegaliteII are $5.25. Sure the
>D's are more versatile, but if you just want to do free climbing or Sport  
>Climbing, then the OmegaliteII are nicer to have. The D's are 1.9 oz, the
>OmegaliteII are 1.7 oz. In quantity, it adds up!!

>Fabian.-

REI sells the BD lite D's for $5.35(with a 10% discount that is under $5).
You can buy 10 from Campmoor for $4.55 each.  So let's not nitpick on
price, they are comparable, if not cheaper!

On weight, BD lite D's weigh 51 grams(by their spec sheet).  That makes then
1.8 oz., so again, pretty comparable with the Omegalite II's.

Now for the real difference.  BD lite D's are made by Black Diamond, I have
some of their carabiners that are over 20 years old and they still work
great.

Omegalites are made by Omega Pacific.  I have always felt that their production
methods were below those of BD.  The Omega Pacific carabiners that I have
had for any length of time(>5 years) have had sticky gates and poor action.

I use my BD lites for all kinds of climbing(sport, free, aid, ice, etc.)
and have never felt that they were not the ideal carbabiner for the situation.

These are obviously my opinions.

Bruce

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Thomas J. Trebis » Sat, 08 May 1993 04:42:58

Quote:

>If it were my money, I would blow off the Omegalite II's and buy the
>Black Diamond Lite D's.  They are cheaper(a dividendable $5.35), just
>as light and a much more versatile carabiner.

Good advice, my carabiner of choice.  I am reminded of a few interesting
stories with cheapo carabiners.  (But before I get off on that, I might
mention that I have a number of Omega ovals on my rack, that have served
me well for a number of years, if nothing else, they are completely
suitable for racking wired nuts!).

At any rate, once upon a time, long long ago, my favorite climbing shop
stocked a cheap oval 'biner of brand-name "Eiger".  This quicly became
dubbed the "Eiger death 'biner", a phrase used in statements like, "hey
Tom, do you still have any of those old eiger death-biners on your rack?"
One of their tricks, which certainly happened at least once to anyone who
owned any of these, would be to stay stuck open after a clip (yes, I know,
a little attention could rememdy this, but it is less than encouraging to
have to clip the carabiner *closed* around the rope), at its best this
leads to glancing down in the midst of a dicey move, several feet above
your last piece, only to see the gate stuck open and the rope inside the
biner by only the strangest bit of luck.  These items of equipment had a
habit of disappearing on climbs (one of my partners admits to tossing
them off when his comrades were looking the other way), and were rather
unsuited even for racking wired nuts, for reasons that are probably
obvious.

I haven't seen these for sale for some time now.  You can probably expect
similar shenanigans from other bargain carabiners, however.

Caveat Emptor

        Tom
--

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by John Stephen Patri » Sat, 08 May 1993 22:22:43

Quote:

>REI sells the BD lite D's for $5.35(with a 10% discount that is under $5).

 ^^^
Where can I get the REI catalog? And that other one, Campoor?  I've just
started and would like to get some equip for a semi-decent rack....

L8R,

            ____
        /  /   /
       /  /___/
  /   /  /
 /___/  /

--
(John S. Patrick      Electrical Engr/Computer Engr     University of Oklahoma)

(All that is gold does not glitter. . . .            John Ronald Reuel Tolkien)

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Tim Dy » Sun, 09 May 1993 05:28:56

Any comments on Petzl's "pinless" biner.  They are high dollar ($10.50)
but it seems they do avoid those nagging snags when trying to remove
one from a crowded rack.

- Tim

 
 
 

Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Nico Veenka » Mon, 10 May 1993 02:26:08

Quote:

> Any comments on Petzl's "pinless" biner.  They are high dollar ($10.50)
> but it seems they do avoid those nagging snags when trying to remove
> one from a crowded rack.

I bought a pinless biner a year ago just to test it. I used it as often
as I could and I like them very much. Just get it from your rack and no
problems snagging especially in 'hary' situations. Haven't taken a fall
on it though so can not tell from experience how well it holds. They are
expensive indeed. Too expensive right now to replace all my quickdraws.

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Biners, biners, Biners

Post by Garry N R » Wed, 19 May 1993 09:16:04

Another great choice: Bonatti "death biners" and the origincal SMC ovals
(orange). Stuck gates galore!