>(jim moore) says:
[My original post deleted]
>>Yessir.. all that great publicity over bolt wars is doing wonders
>>for access. Strange how 90% or more of those bolt routes are
>>amenable to top roping.
Wrong! We're talking about a lawsuit at City of Rocks where you have to
climb many of the rocks to even get on top of them. Also, routes are
one to six pitches depending on where you climb.
>>The more you request assistance from officialdom in resolving
>>'ethical disputes', the less freedom you will have.
Climbers do not request assitance from "officialdom". It is imposed
upon us and we have formed a climbing organization to derive a consensus
which is presented to the NPS as to how to handle climbing issues.
>>Are you a new, hot, ambitious young gun?
Pushing 40 and have been climbing a long time. Not too ambitious. Love
climbing as should be obvious by the plthora of posts I've put in here
when I'm not climbing.
Like to keep your options open?
Absolutely, but with some restrictions derived from a consensus to
restrict the environmental impact of climbing to a level that is
mutually agreed upon in public meetings between the NPS and a climber's
organization which represents the consensus of a questionnaire sent to
thousands of climbers and not just the individuals in attendance.
>>Try keeping bolts as your absolute last option.
Personally, I've never put up a bolted route, but do climb those put up
by friends. The consensus we've worked out was to ban further
development of certain rocks and to ban bolting near crack which could
accept safe protection (i.e. - bolting allowed next to rotten flaring cracks).
>>Somebody chop your gear?
No, a friends on a route the NPS decided to allow. Chopping circumvents
the channels of negotiation we are attempting to establish here and ALL
local bolters are involved in the climbers coalition to work with the
NPS on a balanced policy. The current policy is moderate and favors
neither traditionalists nor the route manufacturers who would chip hold
or glue them on to make artificial routes.
>>Try hiking a few miles further, and then
>>keep your 'achievement' out of the public forum.
Jim, I'm not a route establisher, just president of Friends of City of
Rocks. I'm just trying to make it clear as to how important it is that
climbers work together, no matter how extreme our positions. From
experience, it seems that about 98% of climbers want to work together.
The other 2% represent the extreme opposite fringes of environmental
traditionalists and the radical new artificial route fabricator to turn
the place into a construction zone. Unfortunately, it seems the extreme
fringes practice their own form of terrorism. Blatantly mocking the
effort of the other 98% to work for years with the NPS to develop a policy.
>>The need for recognition is a curse.
What need? There is no innate need for anyone to strive for recognition.
Only those who want their egos fed with attention from others perceive
this as a need. Also, if you are referring to those who put in the
bolts, most of them are low key guys around 40 years old who just want
to be left alona nad enjoy climbing for it's own sake. They don't care
whether anyone knows what routes they put up.
>>Try being a true outcast, and
>>consider your climbs as a totally antisocial and self gratifying endeavor.
>>Revel in anonymity.
While this does not apply to me since I don't put up routes, I can say
that several bolters have gone elsewhere in S.E. Idaho and developed
many new areas in anonymity, but then when climbers here about there
areas, they are soon innundated as well.