Ginger Cracks-beta

Ginger Cracks-beta

Post by Ben Craf » Thu, 22 Oct 1998 04:00:00


Hey,
I'm a little confused about the approach and descent on this climb can
someone help me.
Here's my question..
Is it easy to see the curving chimney?  
Also, to get to the climb you just do the CC approach, but how far up the
hill do you have to hike?
Will 1 rope get you down on the descent?

Thanks,
Ben

#######
#####\_O            -Ben Craft-        
####/\/>          
#### /"            
###  \              

 
 
 

Ginger Cracks-beta

Post by WSJgrig » Fri, 23 Oct 1998 04:00:00


Quote:

>I'm a little confused about the approach and descent on this climb can
>someone help me.

Warning: Any of my past or current partners will tell you that whatever
direction I say it is, go the opposite.  They are only half kidding.  Caveat
Emptor.
.

Quote:
>Is it easy to see the curving chimney?  

I don't remember much of a chimney.  The crack system is visible from quite a
distance, as is the huge black waterstreak way to the left of the route that
marks the face down which you rappel.  The start of the route is near the start
of the big gully system leading up to the waterstreak.

Quote:
>Also, to get to the climb you just do the CC approach, but how far up the
>hill do you have to hike?

It's a little shorter a hike than CC, and *slightly* less steep than the final
CC ramp at the end.  You follow the same approach for most of the way but head
left just before you get to the final ramp that goes around the corner right to
CC.

Quote:
>Will 1 rope get you down on the descent?

Only if it's a very, very long rope ;-)   2 ropes are required for the descent.
 Note that the last 3 raps of the old rap route, which started from the "tree
of many slings" and continued to the "flake of many slings", etc. has just been
replaced by a new bolted rap route.  From the top of GC, head back through the
gunsight, do one short rap (off slings) to the Ginger Bowl, scramble/walk down
to the top of the face with the waterstreak, and it's 3 raps from there, all
bolted.  Check out the brand new climb as you rap down it: "Power
Failure"--it's destined to be a classic. P1:  5.9 face; P2: 10b crack/face; P3:
5.9 crack.

After the last rap, scramble down the gully to your packs.

I posted a short TR for GC earlier this year.   I'm sure DejaNews will turn it
up or you can email me.  And the old red Urioste Guide has a good
pitch-by-pitch description.  (But *don't* bother looking for the "aromatic
plant" and *do* take care on the pitch which is described "wander up the rotten
face and crack".  There's a death block or two up there.)  But all things
considered,  I thought it was a great route and, with only one bolt (and
generally no people) on it, it's much more of an adventure than CC.  

Wendy "Honorary Red Rock Local" Joseph

P.S. Gary if you read this please correct me if I am wrong!

 
 
 

Ginger Cracks-beta

Post by GaryFi » Fri, 23 Oct 1998 04:00:00


Quote:
(WSJgrigri) writes:



>>I'm a little confused about the approach and descent on this climb can
>>someone help me.

>Warning: Any of my past or current partners will tell you that whatever
>direction I say it is, go the opposite.  They are only half kidding.  Caveat
>Emptor.

Ha! Sad, but true. My first clue was when we walked down from CC in the dark
and you asked why we were in Oak Creek when we were in Pine Creek!
.

Quote:
>>Is it easy to see the curving chimney?  
>I don't remember much of a chimney.  The crack system is visible from quite a
>distance, as is the huge black waterstreak way to the left of the route that
>marks the face down which you rappel.  The start of the route is near the
>start of the big gully system leading up to the waterstreak.
>>Also, to get to the climb you just do the CC approach, but how far up the
>>hill do you have to hike?
>It's a little shorter a hike than CC, and *slightly* less steep than the
>final
>CC ramp at the end.  You follow the same approach for most of the way but
>head
>left just before you get to the final ramp that goes around the corner right
>to
>CC.
>>Will 1 rope get you down on the descent?

>Only if it's a very, very long rope ;-)   2 ropes are required for the
>descent.
> Note that the last 3 raps of the old rap route, which started from the "tree
>of many slings" and continued to the "flake of many slings", etc. has just
>been
>replaced by a new bolted rap route.  From the top of GC, head back through
>the
>gunsight, do one short rap (off slings) to the Ginger Bowl, scramble/walk
>down
>to the top of the face with the waterstreak, and it's 3 raps from there, all
>bolted.  Check out the brand new climb as you rap down it: "Power
>Failure"--it's destined to be a classic. P1:  5.9 face; P2: 10b crack/face;
>P3:
>5.9 crack.

>After the last rap, scramble down the gully to your packs.

I helped Jorge finish putting up Power Failure on Oct. 4th. He calls it Power
Failure because he dropped his power source on the FA the week before. 1st
pitch is about 100 feet. The second, crux pitch is a good 150 feet with mixed
pro. The 3rd pitch goes about 130-140 feet, all trad. Wendell "the Dean"
Broussard said the 3rd pitch was on of the best 5.9 pitches he's ever done.
Very sweet, safe, and fun. Approach is probably 1.5 hours unless you are quite
the physical specimen. All the stations have at least two Fixe 1-piece rap
anchors.

If you scramble up the headwall in the bowl above the waterstreak , just to the
right of the center of the bowl you will see one lonely bolt protecting the
thin face start. This is the start of "Bueno Arbusto" (good bush). It is a new
90' pitch climb that goes 10- face, short traverse left into the crux corner
system. There is a fixed station just below the horn that sticks down into the
corner. Wendy & I tried to extend the route a couple of weeks ago, but the pro
got thinner than the holds in the corner. That along with the baby-ass smooth
overhanging sidewalls leading to the OW crack with the bush sticking out sent
us packing. ;^/ Not to mention the loose rock I dumped onto Wendy. Wear you
helmet and mind the bird shit! Smaller gear with nothing bigger than a #2
Camalot. The route got it's name as the slung branches of the bush actually
held me as I attempted to downclimb to the belay. If you think you can send it,
be our guest. Probably hard 11. Otherwise, it's a good 5.10 single pitch to
round out Power Failure or Ginger Cracks. Enjoy, it's really a blast. .

Quote:
>I posted a short TR for GC earlier this year.   I'm sure DejaNews will turn
>it
>up or you can email me.  And the old red Urioste Guide has a good
>pitch-by-pitch description.  (But *don't* bother looking for the "aromatic
>plant" and *do* take care on the pitch which is described "wander up the
>rotten
>face and crack".  There's a death block or two up there.)  But all things
>considered,  I thought it was a great route and, with only one bolt (and
>generally no people) on it, it's much more of an adventure than CC.  
>Wendy "Honorary Red Rock Local" Joseph
>P.S. Gary if you read this please correct me if I am wrong

Even when you're wrong, you're right, my dear. <G>

gary

Die while you're alive and be absolutely dead. Then do whatever you want: it's
all good.
....Bunan (1603-1676)