DMM Ice Tools

DMM Ice Tools

Post by sjch.. » Wed, 30 Jun 2004 10:39:39


I am wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions of DMM's product
line.
I am looking at a couple of there ice tools for vertical ice.

TY
SCC

 
 
 

DMM Ice Tools

Post by Scott Grime » Thu, 01 Jul 2004 04:29:40

Which ones?

--
Cheers,

SMG

Quote:
> I am wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions of DMM's product
> line.
> I am looking at a couple of there ice tools for vertical ice.

> TY
> SCC


 
 
 

DMM Ice Tools

Post by sjch.. » Thu, 01 Jul 2004 05:56:12

Scott,

I actually was looking at the whole line of their products. As far as ice
tools go, the Alien and Fly.

TY SCC

Quote:

> Which ones?

> --
> Cheers,

> SMG


> > I am wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions of DMM's product
> > line.
> > I am looking at a couple of there ice tools for vertical ice.

> > TY
> > SCC


 
 
 

DMM Ice Tools

Post by Scott Grime » Thu, 01 Jul 2004 06:25:36

With most people here in the NE, or at least what I've seen, settling on the
bigger names for gear e.g. BD & CM - DMM has been a breath of fresh air not
only with their simplicity in design but their somewhat lower costs.  I have
not tried their latest ice screws but their crampons and technical ice tools
have performed well for me when I've had a chance to try them. I still own
an old set of BD BP and I am having a hard time parting with them.

The Alien (I thought it was the Raptor there also the Venom with a slight
curve to the shaft) was a good all around tool (Raptor) with fairly good
balance for a straight shafted tool and a really aggressive pick.  The Fly
did not impress me as much as the newer BD's & CM's but at the time it was
priced lower than either of the other tools making me think for the money
they weren't bad tat-all.  Haven't had a chance to play with the Xeno which
is DMM's radically shaped tool.

I partner of mine has used both the Trango Harpoon and the DMM Terminator
and compares them to anything put out by Grivel or BD as he has had both.

If you're just starting out got to an ice festival if you can lots-O-gear
manufacturers usually on hand with demos of all their booty on some
artificial ice wall.  In the NE both the Daks and the Whites have a yearly
festival.  I think it will come down to personal preferences and how deep
your wallet is.

--
Cheers,

SMG

 
 
 

DMM Ice Tools

Post by Petrarc » Thu, 01 Jul 2004 16:55:22

Both my wife and I use DMM Flys (Flies?) and are quite happy with 'em. On
the other hand I don't have a lot of experience with other tools for
comparison - just some ancient beat-up p.o.s we used on an ice climbing
course.

Our criteria when we bought them were: we could only afford one set of tools
each, we do as much easy snow/mixed climbing as we do water ice. So we
wanted the best all-round compromise (+robustness) we could get; price was
also an important factor. I'm not sure I would have gone with the DMMs if I
was only going to be climbing vertical ice.

We only climb up to Scottish IV (WI3) or WI4 on toprope.

Petrarch


Quote:
> I am wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions of DMM's product
> line.
> I am looking at a couple of there ice tools for vertical ice.

> TY
> SCC

 
 
 

DMM Ice Tools

Post by sjch.. » Fri, 02 Jul 2004 22:29:44

Scott,

Thanks for your opinion and help. It is refereshing to post in here and actually
get constructive comments.

TY
SCC

Quote:

> With most people here in the NE, or at least what I've seen, settling on the
> bigger names for gear e.g. BD & CM - DMM has been a breath of fresh air not
> only with their simplicity in design but their somewhat lower costs.  I have
> not tried their latest ice screws but their crampons and technical ice tools
> have performed well for me when I've had a chance to try them. I still own
> an old set of BD BP and I am having a hard time parting with them.

> The Alien (I thought it was the Raptor there also the Venom with a slight
> curve to the shaft) was a good all around tool (Raptor) with fairly good
> balance for a straight shafted tool and a really aggressive pick.  The Fly
> did not impress me as much as the newer BD's & CM's but at the time it was
> priced lower than either of the other tools making me think for the money
> they weren't bad tat-all.  Haven't had a chance to play with the Xeno which
> is DMM's radically shaped tool.

> I partner of mine has used both the Trango Harpoon and the DMM Terminator
> and compares them to anything put out by Grivel or BD as he has had both.

> If you're just starting out got to an ice festival if you can lots-O-gear
> manufacturers usually on hand with demos of all their booty on some
> artificial ice wall.  In the NE both the Daks and the Whites have a yearly
> festival.  I think it will come down to personal preferences and how deep
> your wallet is.

> --
> Cheers,

> SMG

 
 
 

DMM Ice Tools

Post by Kalin KOZHUHARO » Sat, 03 Jul 2004 02:33:28

Quote:

> I am wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions of DMM's product
> line.
> I am looking at a couple of there ice tools for vertical ice.

Used Alien (bent shaft) for 2 years, now upgraded to BD Cobra + Viper (and a pair of BD Fusions for mix).

The Alien was a very good and very _strong_ tool! It took a lot of abuse without breaking.
The ax was very good for chipping ice.
I loved the curve on the pick to put your rope, though I never used it while climbing.
Pounding on the head (there is a piece of the pick for that) really helped me a few times to make a belay in very hard snow; no other brand tool has that!

However:
0. It is heavy! Not for the mountain, maybe a one-day (half-day) WI is good.
1. The bottom part of the shaft has a special "thing" instead of a spike - snow/ice gets stuck there very easy.
2. The *** of the shaft is very weak, fell apart after some use.
3. The standard leash more or less sucks (compared to BD androids).
4. Pick had to be modified for easier removal from ice.
5. The pick steel was not particularly hard (nor anything, except BD AerMet pick (out of production)).
6. Veery difficult to change ax and hammer - it took 3 men, a vice and 20 minutes in the shop! (I wanted an ax and they had assembled a hammer only and spare axes).
7. Did I say heavy?

The Predator is even heavier.

The Fly is too light and seems too fragile to abuse in harsher environment (alpine ice routes).

For pure WI, I'd recommend a pair of BD Cobras or Vipers. but believe me, after some time you'd get bored and will want to try mixed climbing, alpine ice and so on (this March I was in Canada, mostly WI climbing). Then you'll appreciate a bit broader range (lightness) of the above BD tools.

So to sum up, I give the bent Alien 6 out of 10 points.
Cobra with Cobra pick is 7.5 with AerMet and Android leash goes to 8.5 and that is the best I've given for a tool.

I have tried/used/owned the following:

CM:        Quark,Ergo,Axar,Quasar,Pulsar,Llama
DMM:       Alien,Predator,Fly,Raptor
BD:        BP,Cobra,Viper,Shrike,Fusion
Kajitax:   <model??>
Russian:   <model??>
Bulgarian: <model??>
DIY:       a rework form alpine pickels, etc.

Kalin.

--
||///_ o  *****************************
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 
 
 

DMM Ice Tools

Post by Michael Hu » Sun, 04 Jul 2004 02:04:02

Quote:

> I am wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions of DMM's product
> line.
> I am looking at a couple of there ice tools for vertical ice.

> TY
> SCC

It's all a matter of personal preference. I didn't like the feel of
the Fly's that I tried this past winter. The swing seemed very odd and
the pick sucked for bullet hard ice(slightly modded tip w/ side
bevels). I much preferred the CM Quarks for pure waterfall ice over
anything else I've tried. The quark's shaft and swing felt natural and
sticks were very secure right away to me.

Get what you can get parts for locally. Unless you want to maintain
your own backstock of picks and bolts. Most places around here don't
carry any DMM stuff so I'm stuck with CM and BD....

That being said, the tools aren't going to hold you back much.

-MH