> I wanted to field some opinions on the best manner to build strength and
> endurance. All climbers crave both of these attributes, but we all know
> there is a fine line between working for strength and overworking our
> muscles and tendons. For example, many climbers want to add weekly gym
> workouts to their routine, but find it difficult to balance this with their
> need and desire to climb. If you work out hard, you are going to neeed 48
> hours to rest. Working out twice a week would severly limit the frequency
> with which you could climb. I think it would beneficial to everyone if
> people shared their knowledge and philosphies on training. Consistent,
> programatic training for strength, endurance, and technique is without
> question to key to improving your climbing ability. What are the best methods
> to achieve this "programatic" balance?
Maybe we should preface the discussion with: "what are the attributes of a
successful training program?" Many of the articles and books written about
training are aimed at high end competition climbers (or those aspiring to be),
and I find that the advice given doesn't always apply to my recreation oriented
climbing. It's interesting to know what the top comp climbers consider to be the
ideal training program, and certainly some of the things that they do to
improve will also help the rest of us improve, but most of us are juggling work,
family, school, and other interests, so it becomes a question how does on optimize
one's training given a limited amount of time and energy -- how do you improve
your climbing given a one-on-thir***-off climbing schedule?
So, besides improving/maintaining one's climbing, I'd say, a good training
-- Prevents injuries. Weight lifting seems to do this for me.
-- Is interesting enough that you can maintain it in the face of flagging
motivation. A dedicated partner helps.
-- Is flexible enough that you can fit it into a tight schedule.
-- Can include kids, spouse, SO, etc. Kids love climbing gyms.