Missing bolt hanger at Summersville,WV?

Missing bolt hanger at Summersville,WV?

Post by David Collin » Fri, 08 Nov 2002 05:50:59


Saw the following posted on 7/30/02 on gunks.com. I quote

"Some info to keep in your back pocket. A climb between Souled Out and
Chunko Goes Bowling, not in my guide book, goes up and inside
corner/arete/then over bulge to anchors. Anyway, did the climb but
decided to anchor in up top to sit in the sun for awhile. As my second
was coming up the hanger fell off the last bolt. Stud seemed a little
stripped so I placed the hanger on the first handhold of the climb as a
warning that something is up. When doing Orange Oswald found out that
the stud of one of the new shiney quick clip anchors is completely
spinning around. Decided to rap off a neighboring climb. / Ed "

Can anyone, whose been on that climb since then, let me know what the
state of the last clip is? I'd be interested in giving it a go if there
is a hanger on the last bolt.

The link to the original post is:

http://www.gunks.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=2&Board=other&Number...

David Collins

 
 
 

Missing bolt hanger at Summersville,WV?

Post by C_Kryl » Fri, 08 Nov 2002 12:47:14

<<Can anyone, whose been on that climb since then, let me know what the
state of the last clip is? I'd be interested in giving it a go if there
is a hanger on the last bolt.>>

As of this past Tue. the bolt was still missing it's hanger though I found I
didn't really miss it as it's very easy climbing past that point.  Excellent
climb, wish that inside corner was about 30' longer though.  If you can
climb past the first 3 bolts without too much trouble then don't let that
last hanger worry you it's pretty easy.

Orange Oswald, while an excellent climb, needs some serious help with the
anchor bolts at the top.  The original bolts are still there but look rusty
and the replacement 'quick clip' anchors are pretty shady.  One of them is
about to pop of it's bolt but the other looks pretty good.  If anyone lives
in the area I'm sure nobody would object to a little house keeping with
those anchors.

Chris

 
 
 

Missing bolt hanger at Summersville,WV?

Post by Dbraya » Fri, 08 Nov 2002 21:52:51

Im heading down there this weekend, I'll bring a wrench + a couple
hangers and make a quality analysis on the bolts for replacement.
Also, I'll email some of the locals with cough dri#$s and see what
they want to do.

From what I remember, the climb up there is easy, but you may want to
bring some gear.  You never know if you're going to run into a wet
hold or have a hold break..or even a wasp nest.  I bet the bolts on
top are getting bad because of the water flow that it sees, but if
those bolts are having trouble, I would not want to be taking the big
40 footer on the lower bolts.

Oh I tested the last bolt on homer erectus a few weeks ago...its still
holding those 30 footers with no problem ;)

-Dan

 
 
 

Missing bolt hanger at Summersville,WV?

Post by David Collin » Sat, 09 Nov 2002 00:42:23

Chris and Dan

Thanks for the info. About a month ago, I almost tried the unnamed route
at the end of a tiring day. Glad I didn't as I would have appreciated
the bolt even on the easy stuff. Thanks also for the info about Orange
Oswald. That's been on my list too.  

Quote:
> Im heading down there this weekend, I'll bring a wrench + a couple
> hangers and make a quality analysis on the bolts for replacement.
> Also, I'll email some of the locals with cough dri#$s and see what
> they want to do.

Good stuff! Thanks very much for looking into this. I'll probably also
be there this weekend so I may run into your group. On the subject of
bolts at the New, my understanding is that power drills are allowed at
Summersville (Army Corps of Engineers land) but not in those parts of
the New River Gorge National River which are owned by the NPS. Is there
any plan for replacing existing anchors on routes on NPS property? Some
are becoming quite worn (e.g. Gumby).

Quote:
> From what I remember, the climb up there is easy, but you may want to
> bring some gear.  You never know if you're going to run into a wet
> hold or have a hold break..or even a wasp nest.  

That and the situation when you find yourself exhausted after the harder
lower sections.

David