Caballo.
peas,
Jester
--
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If you see a mad professor in a minibus, just smile. --James Bond
http://westfailure.org
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I always rig a bomber anchor at the bottom (or start of each
subsequent pitch) and choose routes accordingly.
Anyway, my $.02 worth.
Enjoy!
Munch, munch, munch ...Burp!
> >I wonder whether I should switch to a silent
> > partner? Has anyone made the move?
> Do alot of Rope Solo? A Silent Partner works great for me! Costs
> quite alot though. So, should you buy one ... you might want to make
> sure you'll get plenty of use out of it. Unless money is no object
> (who am I kidding?) of course.
> >Second question is has anyone
> > roped soloed a sport route? I was thinking about trying it out. I
> > would use the first two bolts on the climb with screamers as anchors.
> > I would use the belay station for multi pitches. Any thougts?
> How you going to rig that without too much effort? You don't want to
> factor 2 on the first bolt do you? Plus, hopefully the cruxes won't be
> too close to the ground, eh?
> I always rig a bomber anchor at the bottom (or start of each
> subsequent pitch) and choose routes accordingly.
> Anyway, my $.02 worth.
> Enjoy!
> Munch, munch, munch ...Burp!
> I have been rope soloing almost exclusively. Sounds like I
> have to go
> for the big bucks. I forgot about falling after the first
> bolt. Big
> problem. Even with a screamer probably not a good idea.
> thanks that
> ends that idea. The problem with most sports areas is finding solid
> anchor possibilities at the bottom of the climb. thanks for the
> help.
--
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L. Michael Boos
CH-8001 Zuerich
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to e-mail remove 4 dots from left to right
> > I have been rope soloing almost exclusively. Sounds like I
> > have to go
> > for the big bucks. I forgot about falling after the first
> > bolt. Big
> > problem. Even with a screamer probably not a good idea.
> > thanks that
> > ends that idea. The problem with most sports areas is finding solid
> > anchor possibilities at the bottom of the climb. thanks for the
> > help.
> Well, put also a screamer on the first bolt on your way up, then
> you won't incur a factor 2 - or did I miss something?
> > Second question is has anyone
> > roped soloed a sport route? I was thinking about trying it out. I
> > would use the first two bolts on the climb with screamers as anchors.
> to avoid the high fall factor fall near the belay, get a long
> cheater stick and preclip the***few bolts. a stick is way
> cheaper than screamers, usually.
>>> Second question is has anyone
>>>roped soloed a sport route? I was thinking about trying it out. I
>>>would use the first two bolts on the climb with screamers as anchors.
>>to avoid the high fall factor fall near the belay, get a long
>>cheater stick and preclip the***few bolts. a stick is way
>>cheaper than screamers, usually.
> Cheater stick may not get u to the second bolt. Without screamers
> looking a high factor fall especial with silent partner which, unlike
> grigri, provides no cushion before locking up
I really don't understand why you're going to all the trouble.
Most sport areas I've been to have plenty of folks to hook up
with and get a belay.
Then again, maybe you just want to practice soloing...which is
cool and all, but do it at off peak times or unstarred routes
or be prepared to deal with attitude.
Whatever you do, ditch the modified GriGri. Those things are
universally spurned nowadays.
-Rex Pieper
p.s. And realize that not all routes lend themselves well to
soloing (lack of anchors etc) so rather than Screamer shinanegans
perhaps pick another line.
I tied in to a double bolt anchor with a bulky figure eight knot.
I'll bet if you tied into the first bolt with a figure eight knot
(kinda semi loose), and clipped into the second bolt with a locking
biner (small enough profile that the figure eight wouldn't pass thru
the biner) or...tied a long figure eight loop through both bolts (on
biners clipped to the bolts), you'd probably be dynamic enough not to
worry about a shock load. That, or just find an anchor on the ground
(even a separate cord to your pack tied into the first bolt would
provide some shock relief). Anchor on the ground makes the first two
bolts you'd be clipping directly into more dynamic for your "system".
Less fall factor too.
Or...loose figure eight (there's another loose knot I can't think of
that takes a bunch of rope to tighten up...) on the first bolt, then
set the distance to the second bolt with a longer loop that will only
engage if your first bolt blows. Minimizes the shock load and reduces
the fall factor.
Stick clippin' the next bolt makes sense too.
> I really don't understand why you're going to all the trouble.
> Most sport areas I've been to have plenty of folks to hook up
> with and get a belay.
> -Rex Pieper
Wonder if any folks have had trouble with a gri gri not locking or
otherwise failing to function? Do tell!
Brian in SLC
> Wonder if any folks have had trouble with a gri gri not locking or
> otherwise failing to function? Do tell!
From rockclimbing.com:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?mode=viewtopic&topic...
>>I was attempting to break the solo record on Eagle's Way, A3 on
>>El Cap. I wasn't on Reticent - although there was another soloist
>>over there at the time - may be got in trouble as well??
>>
>>I Started at 4am by head torch and free climbed most of the first 6
>>pitches. Things were going well and I didn't have any problems. In
>>the afternoon I continued with the "meat and potatoes" of the climb
>>after having a nice lazy lunch and a cool ledge below the Black
>>Pillar (P7).
>>
>>The end of pitch 10 was reached as darkness drew in. Pitch 11 is
>>considered the crux, which I led in the darkness (doesn't seem to
>>hard then!). It was an awkward leaning corner with about 25ft of
>>shallow Lost Arrows (prob didn't help that I only had 3 with me - I
>>like to go clean as poss...) and went ok until the belay at about 8pm
>>(having climbed for 16 hours so far). When cleaning that pitch my
>>first set of headlamp batteries ran out. Fortunately I had a brand
>>new battery with me (from a unnamed climbing shop!) which turned out
>>to be a total dud and gave out after half an hour on the pitch 12
>>whilst on all those RURPS. No big problem - I just lowered off to the
>>belay and settled down for a night in my comfy harness.
>>
>>Next morning I finished off leading pitch 12 and got all racked up
>>for 13. It went bolt (backcleaned), rivet (big hanger), copperhead
>>(backcleaned), RURP (backcleaned), RURP (backcleaned), copperhead. I
>>had just taken my adjustable daisy from the RURP and was reaching up
>>to the next placement when - PING ... it's roller coaster time! I fell
>>20ft back to the rivet, which broke and continued to fall until I
>>fell directly onto the belay (factor 2 - nice!) The rope came tight
>>on my GriGri - but that didn't stop me - the locking karabiner just
>>snapped off and I continued to fall for another 20ft until my back-up
>>knot stopped me. On the way down, I hit a ledge with my knee (not
>>injury sustaining luckily), flipped upside down and took some pretty
>>bad rope burns to my left hand (I'm left handed). That was fun I
>>thought... until the pain hit! I could hardly use my left hand and the
>>fall had inflamed an old back injury, which turns me into a 90
>>year-old man.
>>
>>I ascended the 40ft back to the belay and weighed up my options. I
>>REALLY badly wanted to do this route in a good time. How fast could I
>>lead, clean and jug each pitch now? It took me 20 mins to jug 40ft of
>>rope just now.... Also my GriGri is mangled - I'm going to have use a
>>slower system now. I can stand up straight, but bending over or
>>exerting my back muscles in any way is killing me. Oh crap. Cut a
>>long story short - I asked for a rescue. Yes, I hated myself for it
>>and I know that it was the wimp's way out. But at least I'm a wimp
>>who gets to live another day.
>>
>>The rescue went fine and YOSAR were absolutely brilliant as were all
>>the nurses in the clinic. Then, the interviews started....
>>
>>What I did wrong;
>>
>>1. We argued for some considerable time over soloing with a GriGri.
>>They really didn't like it and especially didn't like it when I
>>insisted that I still think it is a good system and will continue to
>>use it.
>>2. They didn't like that it was my first solo of a big wall. Smaller
>>stuff doesn't seem to count - I guess that is their call.
>>3. They didn't like my bivvy gear. Yes, I was unequipped for a storm,
>>but how many speed climbers climb with a portaledge and fly? It was
>>the chance that I took and I checked the weather from more than one
>>source. Again, I accept that I was at fault.
>>
>>So, in essence I can rightly be accused of recklessness - but I feel
>>that I took adequate precautions (debatable of course!). I would have
>>finished the route in the early afternoon, if I hadn't been forced
>>through bad luck to hold up in the darkness for 10 hours. The rain
>>did not come until later in the afternoon. The fall was also, to some
>>extent unlucky in the manner in which it debilitated me.
>>
>>Well, there you go - hound me, criticise me and chastise me! I'll try
>>to answer all queries.
>>
>>Tom
PS. All charges were dropped 2 days later and everything is fine now.
> Wonder if any folks have had trouble with a gri gri not locking or
> otherwise failing to function? Do tell!
I still belay on walls w/ the GriGri though. I solo w/ the Silent
Partner.
-Rex Pieper
>I find it works great. I wonder whether I should switch to a silent
>partner? Has anyone made the move? Second question is has anyone
>roped soloed a sport route? I was thinking about trying it out.
> I
>would use the first two bolts on the climb with screamers as anchors.
>I would use the belay station for multi pitches. Any thougts?
1. It locks up when you make quick, jerky moves...a la sport-style dynamic
moves.
2. Once you get it going (sometimes it catches at first) it usually feeds
nicely when you are dragging yourself smoothly along.
3. If you don't already have a thin-ish and preferably dry-treated rope,
you'll need to invest in one to make the SP worth the bother.
4. It's HUGE. This is annoying on aid climbs when you're already bogged
down, but I can't imagine it for sport.
5. You have to fall on it to get it to catch, and you'll always loose ground.
Whereas you can clip a bolt, get in your slack, and have a seat on the gri-gri.
This technicallity makes for scarey lowering off of marginal gear and for
me means having an ATC or gri-gri on hand for such lowers manditory for SP
usage.
6. Small gear loves to get caught in the mammoth clove hitch with the SP.
Maybe this is less of a problem when you rack off of your harness? I've
only used mine with a wall rack/double gear sling.
I only solo on mostly aid routes, but my preference is this: Grigri for
pure aiding, SP when the pitch has some free climbing. That said, when I
am soloing, I don't really consider falling an option. All free climbing
will be well within my limits and all fixed gear will be tested extensively
before being oozed onto. And I always rig my anchors and first piece with
a screamer for safe measure.
Another thought...you have to get pretty far up before those backup knots
are useful on the first pitch. Besides, it's hard to get plentiful back-up
knot-tying stances on sport routes. For that stuff...I'd find a nice place
to solo TR.
Melissa
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