Which way does the biner go?

Which way does the biner go?

Post by Ted Pederso » Thu, 31 Jul 1997 04:00:00


I know the gate should be opposite the direction of travel when clipping a
bolt on lead.  But what if the next bolt is 20' directly above the bolt I am
at.  The next 10 feet the route goes left,  and then 10 feet to the left
(seemed to happen to me a lot on echo wall in josh).  Which way should I clip
the draw?  It seems like the answer might usually be to clip opposite the
direction you are going to travel in the near future,  since as you go higher,
 the angle of the rope varies less through the biner per distance you are to
the left or right of being directly above it.

Ted "stupid hypothetical questions" Pederson

p.s. yeah I'm the guy who asked the lowering onto anchors question,  thanks
for all the tips and tricks.

 
 
 

Which way does the biner go?

Post by Wil Ladewi » Fri, 01 Aug 1997 04:00:00

when in doubt, clip and turn the biner so the open end of the gate is up.

 
 
 

Which way does the biner go?

Post by Rawdo » Sun, 03 Aug 1997 04:00:00

Think of it this way: keep the rope off the gate whenever possible.

Mike