New Red Rock MultiPitch (was Red Rock Routes)

New Red Rock MultiPitch (was Red Rock Routes)

Post by GaryFi » Wed, 13 Dec 2000 13:26:10


>I'm looking to put together a new Red Rock list with climbs around 5.10.
>I'm only looking for routes that are not in the second edition of Swains
>book and are at least 800 feet long.  Any recommendations?

Seems a bit serendipitous so I'll bite.

There's a great new (first?) technical route to the top of Rainbow Mtn. in
front of the Rainbow Wall between Juniper and Oak Creek canyons. "Somewhere
Over the Rainbow". IV 5.11+ 10 pitches. Finished Dec. 3rd by Roxanna Brock and
myself. 10 pitches of mostly stellar climbing. No protection bolts placed (it's
a Wilderness Study Area after all!). There is a hard roof (11+) that I jugged.
If you don't want to go to the top (or do the roof!), the first 5 pitches
combined with the 3 pitches of Power Failure make for a full day of mostly 5.9
- 5.11-  climbing. Climb Power Failure to access the base. If you've climbed
Ginger Cracks, the route starts out of the left (south) side of the large bowl
you rap down into off the top of GC. The 5.11- pitches climb thin cracks on
black, varnished rock. The crux pitch is a short curving roof with a 5 inch
base that closes down to***size (for Rox). Most of the pitches are 3 star!
The final 3 pitches involve bush wacking between off-widths, which keep the
route exciting and adventurous. Spectacular views of the Rainbow Wall and Mt.
Wilson from the top. DRS will have a topo this week. I have some pretty good
pics but no where to show them.

A Christmas gift to all my rec.climbing buddies and Red Rock Aficionados.
Awaiting the second ascent...oh, and, Give Me Back My Rope! After 16 hours of
climbing I was too tired to climb the first pitch of Power Failure to unstick
it and haven't had a chance to go back. 300 foot pink bicolor...