> I was recently checking out a problem with squealing rear brakes on my
> Marin when I noticed the rim on my Mavic 230 was indented all the way
> around where the brake pad hits it. Has anyone had a similar problem?
> I've heard of freqeunt failure of the Mavic 230's, but not this. I'm a
> little leary of riding this bike now...
I would get a non-Mavic rim. I personally like Campy rims.
> Time to replace the rim, buddy. The 230's were notorious for having
>sidewalls. If you can already see the rim worn down from contact with the
>pads, you might try to measure how thick the remaining sidewalls are. I would
>consider having the wheel rebuilt with something more durable like the ever so
>popular 217. I only run 230's up front and have a 217 in the back since I tend
>drag my rear brakes more. Those were the good ol' days, when one could still
>sacrifice durability for extra weight savings. Truth is, I love my 230 up
> front, it's
>stayed true longer than the 217 in back. But then again, that's probably
> because I
>have a suspension fork. My next dream wheelbuild is a Chris King 28 hole front
>hub and DT 15/17/15 either radial or 3-cross laced to a 217. I'm just waiting
>my 230 to wear out.
I attribute the success I've had with these wheels to a few
They were built by someone who knows what he's
doing. I still firmly believe that most people
who build wheels, don't, and I don't care what kind
of a rep they have or who they've built wheels for.
I have a 7sp rear wheel, which I believe is a lot
stronger than an overly dished 8sp.
I have 32-36 spokes. Removing 4 spokes only saves
a half an ounce, and possibly makes the wheel a lot
weaker, especially with such a light (and not as
People keep harping on 230s, complaining of all kinds of
problems. I think they were a great, lightweight product,
capable of long and reliable service, if used properly.
They should never have ended up on production bikes with
dubious, machine-built wheels, with crappy, generic spokes.
I blew up 2 Mavic 230's when the sidewall spiraled out. The wheels
were true. Sidewall failure in this mode has
nothing to do with the spokes or the quality of the build. The guy who
originally posted the bulging sidewall here is in trouble. Just to prove
it, let's get him to wear a motorcycle helmet with a face shield and pump
his tire up to the max pressure posted on the tire. I bet it blows...
The hydraulic disc decreases the radius of action and thus requires larger
applied forces to achieve the same amount of braking. Normal cantilevers
are adequate for very nearly all situations.
>There is essentially no need to go to hydraulic discs because of your
>weight. You do need to get a rim with an adequately designed sidewall.
>I have seen guys much lighter than you wear through Mavic 230 rims. And
>I have seen guys around your weight that have no problems with rim wear
>and ride tons and tons - but not on Mavic rims.
>The hydraulic disc decreases the radius of action and thus requires larger
>applied forces to achieve the same amount of braking. Normal cantilevers
>are adequate for very nearly all situations.
>The purpose of going over to discs is a reluctance to wear away that
My contacts tell me that V brakes are not all they're cracked up to be
and I currently have the disposable income to try something different so
I'll try discs and share the results.
I still say watch the rims carefully and make your own judgements.
Component weight watchers could do well to look at their own personal
baggage to improve performance.
>From my experience with autos with "loose nuts behind the wheel" a boat
>type air horn IS NOT an overkill. If you could get a water bottle cage
>that mounts on the handle bars you would be in position to use it at a
Loud? YUP!!! It will definately be heard above traffic noise.
Just limit exposure to it as it sets ones ears to ringing.
Allan Butler KA0IES