You have quote the following as my post, but it was not. The paragraphs you
show as mine were posted by others in response to my post.
The correct poster that these words are clearly attributable to (Richard
Watson) and others, not me. Please see my original response posting rather
than one that has been edited several times.
In my posting I clearly stated that stays should always be done one at a
time with the bottom bracket locked down and support placed at the bridge
junctures to prevent the bridges from being separated from the stays.
If I used the methods other than what I stated and what you espouse, then I
should just sell all my tools and quit repairing frames and quit building
customs frames...because I surely would not be qualified to be doing either.
To all reading...please watch you editing of posts as you can easily effect
the reputation of others.
>Troy A. Courtney writes:
>> What kind of spreading tools are used to ensure that the spreading
>> is symmetrical? I'm aware of the simple method using a pair of nuts
>> on a threaded rod which is claimed to do a reasonable job.
>You'll have to explain that one to me. What makes the two sides of
>the frame spread equilaterally? The only way I know of without
>fixtures is to bend one side at a time, exactly half of the width
>required. This is not so much spreading as bending one side at a time
>a desired amount. After that you use the standard Campagnolo dropout
>aligning gauges that are made to be used on cold steel.
>> Actually, this is not the best method, because it leaves the dropout
>> not parallel, the bending occurs at the bridge (which may or may not
>> be a problem) and it doesn't assure symmetry in any case (yielding is
>> not that predictable).
>That is only desirable. The farther up the bend occurs the smaller
>the material deformation and the easier it its to bend. Symmetry does
>not come naturally, there being no two frame sides that are
>identically rigid. You cannot rely on symmetry of the frame to
>produce a symmetrical spread,
>> The tools I'd use for a job like this is a lever bar with a hook in
>> it. A 2x4 works fine. The hook is the lag-threaded hardware-store
>> variety, with several layers of duct tape to prevent scratching...
>The rest of this procedure sounds like bad news to me. Don't do that!
>Are you sure that you are speaking from experience? This all sound so
>theoretical. How many frames have you done this way? Ouch!