I don't _want_ to ride her in a kimberwicke and running martingale but it is
the only way we can go on trail rides right now (and she loves going on the
trail)--I keep the reins loose (mild contact but I don't hang on her mouth)
and the kimberwicke with curbchain is only there for when it is absolutely
necessary (and it almost never is). She is a very forward, strong horse and
safety is definitely important out in the field-I must be able to control
her if she spooks suddenly or bolts (we have to contend with deer jumping
out at us, runners coming up silently behind us, etc-she isn't spooky but
considering her strength and power and that she is rather green, I don't
want her to get hurt or me to get hurt because she rears or bolts! I am a
major proponent of the mildest bit possible-usually a thick snaffle! The
running martingale is because she used to have some problems with rearing
(never with me) and it is properly adjusted so it does not affect her at all
unless she really throws her head up (a horse can't rear if they can't get
their head way up). The running martingale is really only for safety (hers &
mine)-not because I can't ride but because I don't want my face broken if
she throws her head or for her to throw her head up and rear in the park. A
double jointed kimberwicke with a copper roller in the middle is a fairly
mild bit-it looks like a french link but with the kimberwicke cheeks and of
course instead of the french link in the middle it has a small copper roller
(her double jointed kimberwicke DOES NOT have a curb
chain). I ride her in the double jointed kimberwicke with no curb chain in
the ring and am hoping to move her to a french link snaffle eventually (I
prefer double jointed bits to single jointed "nutcracker" action ones). I am
also considering a baucher Waterford bit for her as she carries her head
very high naturally and the baucher cheeks are supposed to have a slight
head lowering effect by putting mild poll pressure on the horse. I agree
that adding equipment is not the answer to riding problems-more training is.
I don't believe in all those gadgets and I only use the running martingale
for safety out not he trail as explained above. She is ridden English-I
don't know if I mentioned this earlier. I agree that she may be weaker in
her right hind leg and this contributes to her switching leads in back on
the right lead canter.
I don't think stating that she was probably abused is an "excuse"-I am
taking things very slow with her as I am retraining her to English from
western and we mainly do walk-trot work (until she builds up more muscle and
maintains good rhythm). I have been told the correct order to work on things
is: Rhythm Suppleness Contact Straightness Impulsion Collection (and yes I
know the process of getting to collection takes years). I believe there has
to be good communication between horse and rider and TRUST. I just mention
the probable past abuse because she is very defensive of her mouth and
throws her head up when you put pressure on the reins and she has other
responses that indicate she was treated very harshly. She also looks like
she was beaten at one point-when she is clipped to the skin you can see
scars all over her body-it's terrible what some people do to horses. As for
possible right hind leg weakness-I have heard that horse chiropractors use
ultrasound therapy to heal-anyone have experience with this? Is it worth
doing or an alternate chiropractic therapy? Thanks
>> I have a 13 year old QH mare who always picks up her left lead canter
>> correctly. She also picks up her right lead canter correctly but she will
>> on right lead in front and switch to left lead in back. On the lunge
>> she does not do this. I have been sticking to walk and trot work with her
>> because I do not want to confuse her at the canter. Any suggestions for
>> I can get her to stay with the correct lead at the canter front and back?
>> And if she does switch leads in back, what should I do? Should I go to a
>> trot and then re-ask for the canter or should I just pull her up and walk
>> her on a long rein or something else? I believe cantering her on a circle
>> helps because the slight inside bend encourages her to stay on the
>> lead front and back. Please-any comments or suggestions are greatly
> If a horse switches leads in back either you're telling it to do so or
> favoring some weakness. Figure out which.
> Nonetheless, if and when is does switch in back, pick up its head to the
> outside and boot it back into having all four legs in the same lead. One
> to do this is to drift it away from the lead in front, almost a gentle
> sidepass, then switch legs and hit it smartly with your outside leg.
> with spur or crop to suit your tastes and abilities.
>>While lunging or riding in the ring I use a double jointed
>> kimberwicke with a copper roller (no curb chain) for a bit. When out on
>> trails I use a regular kimberwicke with a curb chain and a running
>> martingale (she is VERY strong). I believe in using the mildest bit
>> and the least amount of "equipment" possible (the running martingale is
>> for that extra control on the trail in case the worst happens and she
>> off, etc.).
> Throw that ***away and get an actual bit. A kimberwicke is one of the
> worst pieces of nonsense this side of a mechanical hackamore. If you
> that junk for a snaffle, get a snaffle. A loose ring snaffle iron snaffle,
> they sell them at feed stores for about $5. They work far better that a
> that doesn't know what it wants to be.
> If whatever you're riding is in the bridle, then use a bridle. Assuming
> understand that last sentence.
> Lose the running martingale, you're using it for the wrong reasons.
> Likewise, if you have to bit up to have a spin in the great outdoors, you
> really should learn to ride.
> There is no amount of hardware you can use to make up for any lack of
> ability to ride a horse.
>> (Background Info: She's a 13 y.of. QH mare who is an ex-barrel racer and
>> just been switched to English 2 years ago. We believe she was abused in
>> past-there are scars all over her when she is clipped.
> Ah yes, they're all abused. What a dynamite way to rationalize both the
> animal's and your own shortcomings.
>> When purchased she
>> was being ridden is a very harsh***bit.
> Gags aren't inherently harsh, just silly if not used for the one purpose
> which they are intended.
>>Fortunately, she seems to trust us
>> and know that we will not hurt her in anyway.)
> Talk about gags...
> You can accomplish more with a smile and a gun
> than just a smile.