On Sat, 18 Mar 2000 19:26:54 -0600, The Handyman
>I agree with the others that the title of this should have referred to
>the bolts, NOT the hayrack. There are protruding bolts from other
>items bolted to a horse trailer. In fact, I bought a used trailer,
>and it had protruding bolts all over the place. One of the first
>things I did, was fix all of them as described below.
>Now, since I am a handyman, I work with lots of hardware, and have a
>First, they should not stick out more than 1/2 inch.
>Saw them off, grind them off, or replace them. IF you saw or grind
>them, put a spare nut on there first, and turn it all the way down.
>That way, when you are done with the sawing, you unscrew that nut, and
>the threads are made usable again.
>Next, go to almost any hardware store, and buy CAP NUTS.
>They are rounded nuts that***on to the threads, and are
>protective. Kids swingsets often use them.....
>Get the ones to match the size of your bolt thickness. Then, just
>screw them on to the end of each protruding bolt, and tighten them.
>NOTE: You DO NOT remove the nuts that are already on the bolts.
>CAP NUTS are made for safety, not for strength.
>The cost should be little. A 1/4" cap nut will cost 50 cents or less.
>More for thicker sizes, less if thinner. So if your rack uses 6 1/4"
>bolts, the cost will be around $3.00. Cheap insurance !!!!
>One other thing. Never tie a small pony to the hooks in the front of
>a walkin trailer, with a manger. Put LOWER hooks to attach the pony.
>I learned this the hard way, after my shetland decided he could rear
>up, and go up INTO the manger, while attached to his "long" chain
>intended for a big horse. (Dont ask me his reasoning for that dumb
>move). Anyhow, that was one mess I dont want to deal with again,
>especially after the chain got wrapped around his leg.... I was
>fortunate, he was not hurt, but my back surely was, after lifting him
>down to the floor, while fighting that chain. With my new, LOWER
>hook, and SHORT chain, he cant rear up. That solved that for under $5
>I also do not use a chain anymore, for the horses. I use a rope, or
>one of those "bungie" cords made for that purpose. A chain can not be
>cut with a knife in an emergency. I still use a chain for the ponies
>though, because I want it REAL short, and havent found a cord short
>enough, but it has a quick release.
>Hope this helps !!!
Dear Mr. Handyman,
I am an "Industrial Maintenance Mechanic" (Journeyman, or,
ergh...., journeywoman) and you post is right on. Very good info,
presented well! I own an older Supreme 4-horse trailer, and I am
planning on some common-sense "retrofits" to it. Who ever heard of a
4-horse trailer having only 2 places to tie your horse anyway? I am
going to weld 2 more ties and 4 hay net loops to the teailer. What
thickness round stock do you think I should use? The stock ties are
about 1/4" round stock. I thought the 1/4" would be good for the horse
ties, and something smaller (could be MUCH smaller) for the hay nets.
I also pondered a couple of additional (and seperate) ties for water
buckets, so that those are out of the way a little also. I would make
all of these in a round "u" shape, out of round stock, and mig weld
them to the trailer. Any comments/suggestions? I really like my
trailer (roomy, solid, plenty of space) but am pretty mistified about
the lack of outside ties. I took a bunch of kids/horses to a show last
year (a full load!) and my biggeest gripe was the lack of places to
tie horses. The trailer is long enough to tie two horses on the same
side of it and still keep them out of kicking range (with my crew-cab
duelly the rig takes your proverbial 40 acre field to turn around if
you can turn around at all, with the kids in the truck!). If you would
make any suggestions, I would be thrilled to hear! I need to get the
trailer painted this year (got a line on a good paint deal) , and want
to get the welding done first. Thanks in advance for your help!
(and I thought 4-H would be good for me.....)