sit on it... to get it to flex (stomp on it if you have to) work that
leather half an hour at a time
catch *at least* two hundred balls a day... (throw them in hard yourself
if you have to)
stuff a ball into it and use ***bands to keep it closed every minute
it is not on your hand for the first three weeks
Actually, many of the gloves are much softer now than they used to be.
But, the pocket padding makes them nearly as tough to break in.
1) Dunk the sucker in a bucket of water and use it until it dries.
2) Buy the magic spray that you apply, then microwave the glove.
(I've never figured out what happens when the sparks fly from the
rapidly-overheating grommets and buckle. Saw one charred glove.)
3) Oil glove with (whatever) and drive an 18-wheeler over it.
4) " " " " drop a SB in the pocket, wrap tightly overnight
place under pillow. Next morning use normally.
5) Oil glove heavily with (whatever) and heat in oven at 175F for two
hours. Allow to cool and use as directed.
What I do:
I use nothing but Lexol on leather: glove oils et al are ALL just
neatsfoot oil, which actually breaks down leather fibers and makes
leather waterproof. Lexol is really good for leather, it smells pretty
good and it makes your hands silky soft, too. Heh.
I also think that while the instant-break-in tricks may make a glove
soft quickly, you'll pay in the long run by reduced lifespan. Take a
little extra care up front and a decent glove will last a LONG time.
1) Oil glove well using fingers to massage Lexol into everything
including laces and straps.
2) Flex the leather where glove must fold: at the heel of the palm,
at the top of the web, and through the bottom of the pocket. Add
Lexol as the glove soaks it up (and it can soak up a LOT).
3) Fold the glove so the tips of the thumb and little finger meet,
and sit on it for a few minutes. More Lexol.
4) More Lexol on the top of the web - grab the two sides of the web
and move your fists back and forth, rolling the web between them.
5) Place softball at base of web, wrap glove tightly with string or
whatever. Set on shelf overnight (my glove) OR place under pillow
6) Use as directed.
All my stuff got ripped off when my truck was stolen in November; I
had to run out and get fielder's and catcher's gloves so my daughter
could take pitching lessons. I did steps 1-4 on both gloves in about
an hour - her glove really worked pretty well, my new catcher's glove
was still pretty stiff but worked OK.
BTW, I never oil the back of a glove as heavily as the palm. This
helps the glove keep it's shape and a bit of stiffness in the fingers,
while allowing the palm to flex easily. I oil the inside every couple
months to counteract the salt from sweat.
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Geoff- Very wise decision, indeed. Also, it is good practice to cover
your ass (CYA).
I always soak a new glove in a pail of warm water. Once it is thoroughly
soaked, I take it out, put a ball in the pocket and tie a heavy string
around the glove. The glove then goes in the freezer for a week.
(Note: I usually do this a month before practices start.) Once the
glove has been totally frozen in that position for a week,I take it out
to thaw and dry, leaving the ball and string. When dry, I usually take
the ball out and rub the whole glove with mink oil. I apply the mink oil
once every two weeks during the season from that point on.
It's amazing what the freezing and the mink oil will do to give you a
Mother of Krystle, Wife of John, Cook to no-one. (That's a Man's Job!!)
Leaves me more time for Softball, Skiing and Sewing.
>Let's see how many different technique's of breaking in a new softball
>glove can be posted. I anticipate some very creative ideas.
Works well on a glove that is all streched out and is too loose.
Compliments of Coach Williams, Westwood High, Mesa, AZ
My daughter tried it before she asked me; she knew I'd say no. Anyway
she did it without the sheet cake pan and the stitches got a little too
10. New glove