HELP!!! CLUTCHES ON ARCTIC CAT ZR

HELP!!! CLUTCHES ON ARCTIC CAT ZR

Post by DanJ » Wed, 10 Mar 1999 04:00:00


I ordered a D&D pipe clutch kit for my zr600efi.  Can I change the primary
spring and weights with the clutch still on the sled???  What is the
dissassembly process for this??  Any tricks??  What about the secondary??  I
believe i get a new helix and a different spring.  What is the dissassembly
process for this??  I was told there was a shim that came with the kit and I
should install it, because if I do not my clutch will engage at about 4700
instead of 5000.  The 4700 is not on the pipe yet so it will bog just a bit
coming up.  Any help is greatly appreciated, because to top it off the parts
get here wednesday and i have to have them on by thursday afternoon.  How long
will this approxiamately take??  Any special tools required??  Also can the
chip be removed without the chip puller, as long as care is taken not to bend
the pins??

Dan

 
 
 

HELP!!! CLUTCHES ON ARCTIC CAT ZR

Post by Markus10 » Wed, 10 Mar 1999 04:00:00

Gonna have to pull the primary off to install the kit.  You need to unspin the
spider to install the new shim.  If you want to skip the shim, you can ge the
spring in while on the sled, but it is very difficult, and much quicker to just
pop the clutch off.

With all the correct tolls you can do it all in an hour.

You can fabricate a tool to get the chip out, best to borow the chip puller
from the dealer.

Markus.

Quote:
>Subject: HELP!!! CLUTCHES ON ARCTIC CAT ZR

>Date: 3/9/99 5:50 AM Eastern Standard Time

>I ordered a D&D pipe clutch kit for my zr600efi.  Can I change the primary
>spring and weights with the clutch still on the sled???  What is the
>dissassembly process for this??  Any tricks??  What about the secondary??  I
>believe i get a new helix and a different spring.  What is the dissassembly
>process for this??  I was told there was a shim that came with the kit and I
>should install it, because if I do not my clutch will engage at about 4700
>instead of 5000.  The 4700 is not on the pipe yet so it will bog just a bit
>coming up.  Any help is greatly appreciated, because to top it off the parts
>get here wednesday and i have to have them on by thursday afternoon.  How
>long
>will this approxiamately take??  Any special tools required??  Also can the
>chip be removed without the chip puller, as long as care is taken not to bend
>the pins??

>Dan


 
 
 

HELP!!! CLUTCHES ON ARCTIC CAT ZR

Post by Brian D. Thoma » Wed, 10 Mar 1999 04:00:00

Can I change the primary spring and weights with the clutch still on the
sled??? -----Yes

What is the disassembly process for this?? -----Mark the cover so you put it
on the same way (it's balanced) and remove the 6 bolts.  The spring is off.
Remove the nuts on the weight bolts and change them, keeping the bolt and
nuts facing the same way.  Replace the cover in the same way you removed it.
Torque the cover bolts to spec evenly in a criss cross pattern like lug nuts
on a wheel.

Any tricks??-----Two people make it easier to get the cover back on with the
new spring.

What about the secondary??  I believe I get a new helix and a different
spring.  What is the disassembly
process for this??-----Remove the jackshaft bolt and slide the secondary
off.  Remove the three nuts, twist and lift the cover off (it's under
tension).  The spring is off now.  Remove the helix with allen driver and
install the new helix.  Don't tighten the allen bolts all the way yet.  Just
finger tight for now.  Use a roll of duct tape and place the half of the
clutch in it so the shaft is off the workbench.  We went with the middle
hole on the secondary.  Twist the front half of the clutch back on the base.
Two people helps here.  The new spring is stiff.  Torque the three nuts to
spec and twist the secondary and let it snap back against the rollers a few
times.  Now you can tighten the allen bolts that hold the helix down.  This
aligns the rollers and helix ramps up for even roller wear.  Put it back on
the jackshaft and torque the bolt to spec.

I was told there was a shim that came with the kit and I should install it,
because if I do not my clutch will engage at about 4700 instead of 5000.
The 4700 is not on the pipe yet so it will bog just a bit coming
up.-----There are two shims for the primary.  We chose not to install them
for ease of installation.  She is making plenty of horsepower by 4700-4800
and we never noticed a bog.  You would need to buy or borrow a clutch
puller, the grunt tool, a torch and some red loctite to install the shims.
If you have access to these tools and want the utmost performance, by all
means pull the clutch.  Your initial question is a moot point if you opt to
remove the spider.  Make sure you heat the spider and threads up to at least
300 degrees (nice and hot) or you risk stripping the threads during removal.
Red loctite the threads for the spider and let it "cure" for 24 hours.
Reinstall the clutch and torque the PTO bolt to spec (very important!)

  Any help is greatly appreciated, because to top it off the parts get here
Wednesday and I have to have them on by Thursday afternoon.  How long will
this approximately take??------With shims installed:  2-3 hours if you've
never done it and with no help, no air tools.  Less than an hour with
experience, help, and air tools.

Any special tools required??------Clutch puller, Grunt tool, Chip puller for
the full install.  Chip puller without shims.

Also can the chip be removed without the chip puller, as long as care is
taken not to bend

Quote:
>the pins??------No.  You can't reach it.

>Dan