The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?
What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
What about graphite and fiberglass?
What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
What about graphite and fiberglass?
> What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
> any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
> What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
> any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
> What about graphite and fiberglass?
For most cues in the same brand there really isn't much other than
decoration that seperates the quality along the price spectrum. Most top
brand name cuemakers' products are built to pretty much the same specs from
the lowest priced model to the highest. You can reasonably expect the
products from most American cuemakers to withstand the test of time so
although the inital investment may be higher for what might appear to be
less cue(less ornamentation), the cost of ownership is usually less.
For the imported brands there can be quite a variance as the composition of
the cues can vary between shipments of the same model. A general rule of
thumb would be to consider the lower priced import cues 'starter' cues with
a limited lifespan. Don't expect to have it stay together and straight for
years. Upside is that there is not much up-front investment required.
Graphite and fiberglass cues have their place and some people do very well
with them. It really depends on what level of player you are and want to
become. World Champions play with fiberglass-clad cues and all wood cues so
it's your choice. Just make sure that there is some sort of a guarantee as
I know of several people whose cues have broken with nothing more than
normal use.
Not much of an answer but it's late.
John
Pool in by far the most difficult game in the world to master. People here
talk of spending a thousand hours just to get stroke repetition down. Right
now your choice of cue is primarily to give you something consistent to play
with. If you can't find a dealer who will let you try a broad line of cue,
ask some people you play with to try hitting with theirs. When you find one
that feels good (doesn't matter the brand), go out and buy one of that
brand. Chances are it will be close enough for you, for now. In a year you
can start thinking about it again.
--Jim
> > The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?
> > What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
> > any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
> As hard as it may be to believe, in most cases it is simply the
willingness
> of people to pay more for what is pretty much the same product.
--
****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold
> What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
> any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
> What about graphite and fiberglass?
Mark0 <--damn spammers ;O)
> --
> ****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold
> > The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?
> > What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
> > any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
> > What about graphite and fiberglass?
Joe (--- Agrees with Mark damn spammers :)
>Mark0 <--damn spammers ;O)
>> all ya gotta know is PECHAUER..
>> www.pechauer.com
>> check'em out..everything is made in the USA..and it's a damn good product!
>> --
>> Hugh(LCS)
--
****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold
> Mark0 <--damn spammers ;O)
> > all ya gotta know is PECHAUER..
> > www.pechauer.com
> > check'em out..everything is made in the USA..and it's a damn good
product!
> > --
> > Hugh(LCS)
> > --
> > ****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold
> > > The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?
> > > What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??
> > > any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?
> > > What about graphite and fiberglass?
More advanced players don't need help from a salesclerk as much as
they really want to test-swing the clubs around. :-)
And although I don't work retail anymore, I still had that mindset
when I was asking around for what kind of cue to begin with. I've met
enough pros and advanced people tell me that beginners tend to do
better with a softer nickel-radius tip. The other things are
intangible -- but steer newbies towards "standard" length, weight, and
tip radius specs to start with.
To be fair, though, this NG's FAQ does give some pointers on how to
choose a cue.
Oh yeah, and the nice thing about a cheap first cue is that you can
heartlessly and painlessly mess it up as your game changes. If my
first cue were something really pretty (and) expensive, I wouldn't be
thinking of taking it to a pro to have its tip skimmed down from 13mm
to 11 mm (or maybe 10).
Sometimes, I think if I had an even cheaper cue than what I've got,
I'd experiment with changing the tip myself (instead of taking it to a
pro). But then I remember that I can always go down to Sportmart and
get a cheap $20 cue for that purpose.
YMMV.
And, I am so glad that I was told to try to save money and not go
above $200 since beginners' games change drastically (with enough
practice) and that will affect what they'll look for in a cue. It's so
true! I mean, after 5 months of Saturdays and Sundays of pool, I
actually now have a game and know how to be picky [2]. Although, I
think I'll "work with" what I've got for now.
Christi.
--
[1] Hm. A lot of advanced people told me to look for a soft or
medium-soft tip. And against the advice of my cousin to get a hard
tip, I stayed with the medium-hard tip that the cue came with.
Surprisingly I'm doing fine.
I want to start experimenting with a dime-radius tip soon, but
there isn't much left on there. I wonder if I should replace it with
something similar, or get something harder.
[2] I actually like my cousin's custom made cues, but travelling
abroad (just for a cue) isn't an option for me right now. :-( And
besides, even if I did have a cue by that maker, how would I be if
such cues were damaged or stolen?
--
"practice makes perfect
perfect is a fault and
fault lines change"
- R.E.M., "I Believe"
--
--
Bob Jewett
> Uh, as someone who used to work in a sporting goods store, I (who's
> never played golf) knew enough to basically steer beginners to large,
> cavity back heads since these are the most forgiving. As for shaft,
> weak looking people were sold sets with whippy shafts. Those who
> looked like they might have a tendency to whack that thing to kingdom
> come were sold sets with more solid shafts. With different sets of
> golf clubs with the same similar characteristics, the customer then
> made the final decision based on a mix of instinct and money.
> More advanced players don't need help from a salesclerk as much as
> they really want to test-swing the clubs around. :-)
--Jim
> Oh, I would replace "money" with "money, skills, and habits." I mean,
> looking here, money isn't the only way to choose a cue as people
> debate how the cue's grip, weight, and balance affect their game. But
> uh, yeah, that's kind of moot to a beginner who has no game to begin
> with. Basically, I was told to look for a cue that isn't warped or
> crooked, and has a good tip [1].
> To be fair, though, this NG's FAQ does give some pointers on how to
> choose a cue.
> Oh yeah, and the nice thing about a cheap first cue is that you can
> heartlessly and painlessly mess it up as your game changes. If my
> first cue were something really pretty (and) expensive, I wouldn't be
> thinking of taking it to a pro to have its tip skimmed down from 13mm
> to 11 mm (or maybe 10).
> Sometimes, I think if I had an even cheaper cue than what I've got,
> I'd experiment with changing the tip myself (instead of taking it to a
> pro). But then I remember that I can always go down to Sportmart and
> get a cheap $20 cue for that purpose.
> YMMV.
> > Pool in by far the most difficult game in the world to master. People
here
> > talk of spending a thousand hours just to get stroke repetition down.
Right
> > now your choice of cue is primarily to give you something consistent to
play
> > with. If you can't find a dealer who will let you try a broad line of
cue,
> > ask some people you play with to try hitting with theirs. When you find
one
> > that feels good (doesn't matter the brand), go out and buy one of that
> > brand. Chances are it will be close enough for you, for now. In a year
you
> > can start thinking about it again.
> Ditto that the first cue is only to develop consistency, and any
> decently built cue will help with consistency.
> And, I am so glad that I was told to try to save money and not go
> above $200 since beginners' games change drastically (with enough
> practice) and that will affect what they'll look for in a cue. It's so
> true! I mean, after 5 months of Saturdays and Sundays of pool, I
> actually now have a game and know how to be picky [2]. Although, I
> think I'll "work with" what I've got for now.
> Christi.
> --
> [1] Hm. A lot of advanced people told me to look for a soft or
> medium-soft tip. And against the advice of my cousin to get a hard
> tip, I stayed with the medium-hard tip that the cue came with.
> Surprisingly I'm doing fine.
> I want to start experimenting with a dime-radius tip soon, but
> there isn't much left on there. I wonder if I should replace it with
> something similar, or get something harder.
> [2] I actually like my cousin's custom made cues, but travelling
> abroad (just for a cue) isn't an option for me right now. :-( And
> besides, even if I did have a cue by that maker, how would I be if
> such cues were damaged or stolen?
> --
> "practice makes perfect
> perfect is a fault and
> fault lines change"
> - R.E.M., "I Believe"
> --