What separates the....

What separates the....

Post by Keith Gaithe » Fri, 30 Nov 2001 13:15:45


The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?

What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??

any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?

What about graphite and fiberglass?

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by NewsPost » Fri, 30 Nov 2001 14:43:22


Quote:
> The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?

> What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??

> any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?

As hard as it may be to believe, in most cases it is simply the willingness
of people to pay more for what is pretty much the same product.

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by John Collin » Fri, 30 Nov 2001 15:15:24


Quote:
> The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?

> What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??

> any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?

> What about graphite and fiberglass?

The question should be what constitutes a good cue and this has been asked
and answered many times in this forum.

For most cues in the same brand there really isn't much other than
decoration that seperates the quality along the price spectrum.  Most top
brand name cuemakers' products are built to pretty much the same specs from
the lowest priced model to the highest. You can reasonably expect the
products from most American cuemakers to withstand the test of time so
although the inital investment may be higher for what might appear to be
less cue(less ornamentation), the cost of ownership is usually less.

For the imported brands there can be quite a variance as the composition of
the cues can vary between shipments of the same model.  A general rule of
thumb would be to consider the lower priced import cues 'starter' cues with
a limited lifespan.  Don't expect to have it stay together and straight for
years.  Upside is that there is not much up-front investment required.

Graphite and fiberglass cues have their place and some people do very well
with them.  It really depends on what level of player you are and want to
become.  World Champions play with fiberglass-clad cues and all wood cues so
it's your choice.  Just make sure that there is some sort of a guarantee as
I know of several people whose cues have broken with nothing more than
normal use.

Not much of an answer but it's late.

John

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by jdub » Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:00:17

Put it in different terms. If you were going out to buy a set of golf clubs
and knew very little about the game, how would you pick 'em.  You'd probably
set a price range and ask a sales rep to show you something in the range you
could afford.  You would pick them up, feel the grip, length balance, swing,
etc. and finally buy based on price, looks and name.  You could have
probably skipped the grip, length and balance part.  And in 6-12 months
you'd be able to go back in the store and do the same thing, this time with
more money in your pocket, and do it all again.  Ditto a year or two later.

Pool in by far the most difficult game in the world to master.  People here
talk of spending a thousand hours just to get stroke repetition down.  Right
now your choice of cue is primarily to give you something consistent to play
with.  If you can't find a dealer who will let you try a broad line of cue,
ask some people you play with to try hitting with theirs.  When you find one
that feels good (doesn't matter the brand), go out and buy one of that
brand.  Chances are it will be close enough for you, for now.  In a year you
can start thinking about it again.

--Jim


Quote:



> > The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?

> > What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??

> > any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?

> As hard as it may be to believe, in most cases it is simply the
willingness
> of people to pay more for what is pretty much the same product.

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by Licking County Sli » Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:38:16

all ya gotta know is PECHAUER..
www.pechauer.com
check'em out..everything is made in the USA..and it's a damn good product!
--
Hugh(LCS)

--
****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold

Quote:
> The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?

> What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??

> any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?

> What about graphite and fiberglass?

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by Mark » Fri, 30 Nov 2001 22:04:04

All ya gotta know is TROGDON
http://trogdoncues.com
check'em out..everything is made in the USA.. (it's not mass produced), and
it's a damn good product!

Mark0  <--damn spammers  ;O)



Quote:
> all ya gotta know is PECHAUER..
> www.pechauer.com
> check'em out..everything is made in the USA..and it's a damn good product!
> --
> Hugh(LCS)

> --
> ****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold


> > The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?

> > What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??

> > any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?

> > What about graphite and fiberglass?

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by Joe » Sat, 01 Dec 2001 00:17:36

All ya gotta know is...... well whatever is on sale this week :)

Joe (--- Agrees with Mark damn spammers :)

Quote:
>All ya gotta know is TROGDON
>http://trogdoncues.com
>check'em out..everything is made in the USA.. (it's not mass produced), and
>it's a damn good product!

>Mark0  <--damn spammers  ;O)



>> all ya gotta know is PECHAUER..
>> www.pechauer.com
>> check'em out..everything is made in the USA..and it's a damn good product!
>> --
>> Hugh(LCS)

Visit www.classiccues.com for a vast selection of collectible cues We will be
supplying pre-ban ivory cue parts very soon. Will be available for trade on new
cues, for cuemakers obviously. New cues always coming...
 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by Licking County Sli » Sat, 01 Dec 2001 05:22:50

LOL
i think we should match up for bragging rights!
--
Hugh(LCS)

--
****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold

Quote:
> All ya gotta know is TROGDON
> http://trogdoncues.com
> check'em out..everything is made in the USA.. (it's not mass produced),
and
> it's a damn good product!

> Mark0  <--damn spammers  ;O)



> > all ya gotta know is PECHAUER..
> > www.pechauer.com
> > check'em out..everything is made in the USA..and it's a damn good
product!
> > --
> > Hugh(LCS)

> > --
> > ****General**** RH "Hughie" Arnold


> > > The 200 dollar cues from the 100 dollar cues?

> > > What separates the 100 dollar cues from the 75 dollar cues??

> > > any Specifics or is it just looks and subjective?

> > > What about graphite and fiberglass?

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by chris » Sat, 01 Dec 2001 21:07:27

Quote:

> Put it in different terms. If you were going out to buy a set of golf clubs
> and knew very little about the game, how would you pick 'em.  You'd probably
> set a price range and ask a sales rep to show you something in the range you
> could afford.  You would pick them up, feel the grip, length balance, swing,
> etc. and finally buy based on price, looks and name.  You could have
> probably skipped the grip, length and balance part.

Uh, as someone who used to work in a sporting goods store, I (who's
never played golf) knew enough to basically steer beginners to large,
cavity back heads since these are the most forgiving. As for shaft,
weak looking people were sold sets with whippy shafts. Those who
looked like they might have a tendency to whack that thing to kingdom
come were sold sets with more solid shafts. With different sets of
golf clubs with the same similar characteristics, the customer then
made the final decision based on a mix of instinct and money.

More advanced players don't need help from a salesclerk as much as
they really want to test-swing the clubs around. :-)

And although I don't work retail anymore, I still had that mindset
when I was asking around for what kind of cue to begin with. I've met
enough pros and advanced people tell me that beginners tend to do
better with a softer nickel-radius tip. The other things are
intangible -- but steer newbies towards "standard" length, weight, and
tip radius specs to start with.

Quote:
> And in 6-12 months
> you'd be able to go back in the store and do the same thing, this time with
> more money in your pocket, and do it all again.  Ditto a year or two later.

Oh, I would replace "money" with "money, skills, and habits." I mean,
looking here, money isn't the only way to choose a cue as people
debate how the cue's grip, weight, and balance affect their game. But
uh, yeah, that's kind of moot to a beginner who has no game to begin
with. Basically, I was told to look for a cue that isn't warped or
crooked, and has a good tip [1].

To be fair, though, this NG's FAQ does give some pointers on how to
choose a  cue.

Oh yeah, and the nice thing about a cheap first cue is that you can
heartlessly and painlessly mess it up as your game changes. If my
first cue were something really pretty (and) expensive, I wouldn't be
thinking of taking it to a pro to have its tip skimmed down from 13mm
to 11 mm (or maybe 10).

Sometimes, I think if I had an even cheaper cue than what I've got,
I'd experiment with changing the tip myself (instead of taking it to a
pro). But then I remember that I can always go down to Sportmart and
get a cheap $20 cue for that purpose.

YMMV.

Quote:
> Pool in by far the most difficult game in the world to master.  People here
> talk of spending a thousand hours just to get stroke repetition down.  Right
> now your choice of cue is primarily to give you something consistent to play
> with.  If you can't find a dealer who will let you try a broad line of cue,
> ask some people you play with to try hitting with theirs.  When you find one
> that feels good (doesn't matter the brand), go out and buy one of that
> brand.  Chances are it will be close enough for you, for now.  In a year you
> can start thinking about it again.

Ditto that the first cue is only to develop consistency, and any
decently built cue will help with consistency.

And, I am so glad that I was told to try to save money and not go
above $200 since beginners' games change drastically (with enough
practice) and that will affect what they'll look for in a cue. It's so
true! I mean, after 5 months of Saturdays and Sundays of pool, I
actually now have a game and know how to be picky [2]. Although, I
think I'll "work with" what I've got for now.

Christi.

--
[1] Hm. A lot of advanced people told me to look for a soft or
medium-soft tip. And against the advice of my cousin to get a hard
tip, I stayed with the medium-hard tip that the cue came with.
Surprisingly I'm doing fine.
    I want to start experimenting with a dime-radius tip soon, but
there isn't much left on there. I wonder if I should replace it with
something similar, or get something harder.

[2] I actually like my cousin's custom made cues, but travelling
abroad (just for a cue) isn't an option for me right now. :-( And
besides, even if I did have a cue by that maker, how would I be if
such cues were damaged or stolen?

--
"practice makes perfect
 perfect is a fault and
 fault lines change"

   - R.E.M., "I Believe"

--

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by Bob Jewet » Sun, 02 Dec 2001 09:23:18

Quote:

> ... The other things are
> intangible -- but steer newbies towards "standard" length, weight, and
> tip radius specs to start with.

I'd sort of agree with this for a first purchased cue, but I think it is
important for beginners to learn how different sticks play.  If they never
play with anything but a 13.25mm, 19-ounce, 18-inch balance, 58 inch long,
nylon wrapped cue, other cues will feel wrong to them at first try, and
they may never find a cue that really suits their game.

--

Bob Jewett

 
 
 

What separates the....

Post by jdub » Sun, 02 Dec 2001 13:26:22



Quote:
> > Put it in different terms. If you were going out to buy a set of golf
clubs
> > and knew very little about the game, how would you pick 'em.  You'd
probably
> > set a price range and ask a sales rep to show you something in the range
you
> > could afford.  You would pick them up, feel the grip, length balance,
swing,
> > etc. and finally buy based on price, looks and name.  You could have
> > probably skipped the grip, length and balance part.

> Uh, as someone who used to work in a sporting goods store, I (who's
> never played golf) knew enough to basically steer beginners to large,
> cavity back heads since these are the most forgiving. As for shaft,
> weak looking people were sold sets with whippy shafts. Those who
> looked like they might have a tendency to whack that thing to kingdom
> come were sold sets with more solid shafts. With different sets of
> golf clubs with the same similar characteristics, the customer then
> made the final decision based on a mix of instinct and money.

Good concepts for a marketing person to steer an unknowing salesperson to,
but clearly your lack of knowledge about the game simply allowed you to take
the 'common knowledge' and disperse it badly (not trying to offend you, but
there's about 30 caveats in your comments).  What about the 6'3' spindly guy
who looks like a strong wind can blow him away.  Give him a whippy shaft and
he'll turn to bowling.  Big, strong guys are sometimes too musclebound and
inflexible to swing really hard.  Stiffness also translate into consistency
(who wouldn't give up 10 years to keep it on the short grass 90+% of the
time).  Kick points, head offsets, loft and lie all figure in.  Sorry, but
as beginneers, you should have steered them to the pawn shop for a $50 set
of beaters.

Quote:

> More advanced players don't need help from a salesclerk as much as
> they really want to test-swing the clubs around. :-)

I've test swung hundreds and hundreds of clubs.... it don't mean a thing.
You're right, more advanced players don't need a sales clerk, they need a
place to go hit balls, in their proper attire, and not just a cage, they
need to see things like trajectory and height.

Quote:
> And although I don't work retail anymore, I still had that mindset
> when I was asking around for what kind of cue to begin with. I've met
> enough pros and advanced people tell me that beginners tend to do
> better with a softer nickel-radius tip. The other things are
> intangible -- but steer newbies towards "standard" length, weight, and
> tip radius specs to start with.

Good rationale, but inconsistent.  Based on your previous comments, why
don't you recommend the bigger player get a 20.5 oz cue and the little
person get an 18 oz.  Somebody who hits harder should have a stiffer shaft?
Etc..  Seems you took the rules you were taught and abandoned them?  Not
saying I disagree with you, I'm just struggling with the lack of consistency
in your logic.

--Jim

- Show quoted text -

Quote:
> > And in 6-12 months
> > you'd be able to go back in the store and do the same thing, this time
with
> > more money in your pocket, and do it all again.  Ditto a year or two
later.

> Oh, I would replace "money" with "money, skills, and habits." I mean,
> looking here, money isn't the only way to choose a cue as people
> debate how the cue's grip, weight, and balance affect their game. But
> uh, yeah, that's kind of moot to a beginner who has no game to begin
> with. Basically, I was told to look for a cue that isn't warped or
> crooked, and has a good tip [1].

> To be fair, though, this NG's FAQ does give some pointers on how to
> choose a  cue.

> Oh yeah, and the nice thing about a cheap first cue is that you can
> heartlessly and painlessly mess it up as your game changes. If my
> first cue were something really pretty (and) expensive, I wouldn't be
> thinking of taking it to a pro to have its tip skimmed down from 13mm
> to 11 mm (or maybe 10).

> Sometimes, I think if I had an even cheaper cue than what I've got,
> I'd experiment with changing the tip myself (instead of taking it to a
> pro). But then I remember that I can always go down to Sportmart and
> get a cheap $20 cue for that purpose.

> YMMV.

> > Pool in by far the most difficult game in the world to master.  People
here
> > talk of spending a thousand hours just to get stroke repetition down.
Right
> > now your choice of cue is primarily to give you something consistent to
play
> > with.  If you can't find a dealer who will let you try a broad line of
cue,
> > ask some people you play with to try hitting with theirs.  When you find
one
> > that feels good (doesn't matter the brand), go out and buy one of that
> > brand.  Chances are it will be close enough for you, for now.  In a year
you
> > can start thinking about it again.

> Ditto that the first cue is only to develop consistency, and any
> decently built cue will help with consistency.

> And, I am so glad that I was told to try to save money and not go
> above $200 since beginners' games change drastically (with enough
> practice) and that will affect what they'll look for in a cue. It's so
> true! I mean, after 5 months of Saturdays and Sundays of pool, I
> actually now have a game and know how to be picky [2]. Although, I
> think I'll "work with" what I've got for now.

> Christi.

> --
> [1] Hm. A lot of advanced people told me to look for a soft or
> medium-soft tip. And against the advice of my cousin to get a hard
> tip, I stayed with the medium-hard tip that the cue came with.
> Surprisingly I'm doing fine.
>     I want to start experimenting with a dime-radius tip soon, but
> there isn't much left on there. I wonder if I should replace it with
> something similar, or get something harder.

> [2] I actually like my cousin's custom made cues, but travelling
> abroad (just for a cue) isn't an option for me right now. :-( And
> besides, even if I did have a cue by that maker, how would I be if
> such cues were damaged or stolen?

> --
> "practice makes perfect
>  perfect is a fault and
>  fault lines change"

>    - R.E.M., "I Believe"

> --