How long do you let it go?

How long do you let it go?

Post by David The Hamster Malon » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 03:06:26


Lately I've been breaking with my Layani playing cue as well as playing
with it. The medium Moori has worn down to the point where there's only
about a six***th of an inch or so left before the start of the curve.
It seems to play really good like this but pretty soon there won't be
enough left to maintain a dime shape (not that it's really a dime
anymore... it seems to have flattened out at the top because I don't
like to pick or re-shape it unless I have to) - how long should I leave
it before I have to put on a new one?

One guy keeps saying I should replace it now or I'll damage the ferrule
(seems a pity since it's playing so nicely) and another says to 'keep
playing with it until you find you're chalking the ferrule'.

Lol... maybe I should play with it until I'm down to the ferrule and
then buy a new cue.

Any thoughts?

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by Pat Hal » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 03:21:30


Quote:
> Lately I've been breaking with my Layani playing cue as well as playing
> with it. The medium Moori has worn down to the point where there's only
> about a six***th of an inch or so left before the start of the curve.
> It seems to play really good like this but pretty soon there won't be
> enough left to maintain a dime shape (not that it's really a dime
> anymore... it seems to have flattened out at the top because I don't
> like to pick or re-shape it unless I have to) - how long should I leave
> it before I have to put on a new one?

> One guy keeps saying I should replace it now or I'll damage the ferrule
> (seems a pity since it's playing so nicely) and another says to 'keep
> playing with it until you find you're chalking the ferrule'.

> Lol... maybe I should play with it until I'm down to the ferrule and
> then buy a new cue.

> Any thoughts?

I would be thinking about replacing it soon.  One thing you might think
about is moving to a hard Moori.  It's been my experience that the
thinner a tip gets the "harder" it plays.  So perhaps you like the thin
tip because it is playing more like a Moori hard and that would be what
you should start with o more closely replicate the hit.

Just a thought

PatH

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by David The Hamster Malon » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 03:34:05

Quote:

>One thing you might think
> about is moving to a hard Moori.  It's been my experience that the
> thinner a tip gets the "harder" it plays.  So perhaps you like the thin
> tip because it is playing more like a Moori hard and that would be what
> you should start with o more closely replicate the hit.

Hmmnn.. interesting thought, Pat. I actually have several Moori 'Quick'
tips left over from a deal a few years back with Toni where he packaged
3 of each (S, M, and Q) together at a reduced price. I was able to sell
off the slow ones to somebody but not the Q's.

Maybe I'll try the Q next and see how they feel. And presumably they'll
last longer.

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by Steve » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 04:43:11


Quote:

> >One thing you might think
> > about is moving to a hard Moori.  It's been my experience that the
> > thinner a tip gets the "harder" it plays.  So perhaps you like the thin
> > tip because it is playing more like a Moori hard and that would be what
> > you should start with o more closely replicate the hit.

> Hmmnn.. interesting thought, Pat. I actually have several Moori 'Quick'
> tips left over from a deal a few years back with Toni where he packaged
> 3 of each (S, M, and Q) together at a reduced price. I was able to sell
> off the slow ones to somebody but not the Q's.

> Maybe I'll try the Q next and see how they feel. And presumably they'll
> last longer.

Dave, after being a big soft tip advocate I've recently tried a Stratos
x-hard because I only had my sneaky break stick with me. I like it so much
I tried one on my playing cue and really liked the way that played too. I
think you might find yourself pleasantly surprised with the Moori quick.
____________________________________________________
Better to wear out than to rust out.

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RecGroups : the community-oriented newsreader : www.recgroups.com

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by David The Hamster Malon » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 04:54:03

Quote:

>I think you might find yourself pleasantly surprised with the Moori quick.

Well, I have to do something soon, I guess. Part of the reason I never
used the Moori Quicks is because I put my own tips on and I don't know
how well my Porper Big Shaver blade will cut a hard tip. I know I have
some really old, dried-out WB tips that it has a hard time cutting - I
have to take a little at a time. Maybe it just needs a new blade.
 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by Jim Eale » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 08:34:46



Quote:
> Lately I've been breaking with my Layani playing cue as well as playing
> with it. The medium Moori has worn down to the point where there's only
> about a six***th of an inch or so left before the start of the curve.

I have heard the rule of thumb was when the thickness before the curve
starts is the thickness of a nickel, it is time to change the tip.

Jim Eales

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by Dan Whit » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 09:30:39



Quote:
> how long should I leave
> it before I have to put on a new one?

I think when you start to question if your tip is worn out, it is time to
change it!  :)

dwhite

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by jdub » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 14:12:46

On 11/18/05 1:06 PM, in article

Quote:

> Lately I've been breaking with my Layani playing cue as well as playing
> with it. The medium Moori has worn down to the point where there's only
> about a six***th of an inch or so left before the start of the curve.
> It seems to play really good like this but pretty soon there won't be
> enough left to maintain a dime shape (not that it's really a dime
> anymore... it seems to have flattened out at the top because I don't
> like to pick or re-shape it unless I have to) - how long should I leave
> it before I have to put on a new one?

> One guy keeps saying I should replace it now or I'll damage the ferrule
> (seems a pity since it's playing so nicely) and another says to 'keep
> playing with it until you find you're chalking the ferrule'.

> Lol... maybe I should play with it until I'm down to the ferrule and
> then buy a new cue.

> Any thoughts?

Ask Thierry.  Although I'm sure he'll be happy to sell you a new cue, too.

Jdub

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by Ron Shepar » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 14:58:06



Quote:
> The medium Moori has worn down to the point where there's only
> about a six***th of an inch or so left before the start of the curve.

When the side of the tip gets down to about the thickness of a
nickel, you should start thinking about changing it.  I usually try
to change tips at least a week before a tournament because I don't
like the way new tips play.  So when it gets about this thin, I look
at the calendar to see when would be a good time to change.

$.02 -Ron Shepard

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by Mail Ma » Sun, 20 Nov 2005 20:32:16

Quote:

> I have heard the rule of thumb was when the thickness before the curve
> starts is the thickness of a nickel, it is time to change the tip.

This is the RIGHT rule!  This is quite old and was applied to such tips as
the Elkmaster (pretty soft), LePro (slightly less than medium hardness) and
Triangle (about medium hardness).  Now, with the Talismans and, especially,
the Mooris, which are quite a bit harder, I would say that this rule applies
even more than ever before.

This nickel+ cushion protects the ferrule from splitting or cracking.  If
you let this go too long, you can even get some damage to the tenon and/or
that part of the shaft that butts up against the shaft-end of the ferrule.
I have seen all of this happen.  Don't be cheap -- put on your Moori Q RIGHT
NOW and save on $40-$80 worth of eventual ferrule/shaft damage.

Mike Collier
Oak Harbor, WA

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by Ratche » Mon, 21 Nov 2005 02:10:03

Quote:


> This nickel+ cushion protects the ferrule from splitting or cracking.  If
> you let this go too long, you can even get some damage to the tenon and/or
> that part of the shaft that butts up against the shaft-end of the ferrule.
> I have seen all of this happen.  Don't be cheap -- put on your Moori Q RIGHT
> NOW and save on $40-$80 worth of eventual ferrule/shaft damage.

> Mike Collier
> Oak Harbor, WA

Thats exactly what happened to my first brand name cue , I liked the hit
and could draw the sh!t out of the CB .That was right up until I cracked
the ferrule and split the tenon all to hell . I ended up having the
shaft turned losing about 1/2 of an inch off of it ...I had bought a new
  matching shaft for it at a trade show and when I recieved the finished
"shorter" shaft I found I liked it much better ????

Ratchet - wishes he still had that cue !

 
 
 

How long do you let it go?

Post by David The Hamster Malon » Wed, 23 Nov 2005 00:04:15

Quote:

> This nickel+ cushion protects the ferrule from splitting or cracking.  If
> you let this go too long, you can even get some damage to the tenon and/or
> that part of the shaft that butts up against the shaft-end of the ferrule.
> I have seen all of this happen.  Don't be cheap -- put on your Moori Q RIGHT
> NOW and save on $40-$80 worth of eventual ferrule/shaft damage.

Ok, Mike... you're scaring me now. I'll play league with it Tuesday and
then try the Moori Quick on it.