The shiny stuff

The shiny stuff

Post by Steve » Mon, 17 Sep 2012 00:16:03


I'm done with cleaning up an old wood cue stick.  Now what's the best clear
coat?  Varnish?  Shellac?  Varathane?  Other?  And spray or brush?  I'd
guess to prop it up in a safe place, and then spray in successive layers.
But which clear coat would last the longest, and perform best for a pool
cue?

Steve

 
 
 

The shiny stuff

Post by Bill » Tue, 18 Sep 2012 03:21:50


Quote:

> I'm done with cleaning up an old wood cue stick.  Now what's the best clear
> coat?  Varnish?  Shellac?  Varathane?  Other?  And spray or brush?  I'd
> guess to prop it up in a safe place, and then spray in successive layers.
> But which clear coat would last the longest, and perform best for a pool
> cue?

> Steve

I don't know about the ***end, maybe search google.com for the
following words...

furniture finishing

As for the tip and shaft end where I might place my bridge hand (first
foot and a half back from the tip), I want this as SMOOTH as possible so
the shaft glides through my fingers with no resistance.

I don't have ANY finish or varnish on that end. I sand it starting with
100 grit sandpaper and then sand with 200 grit, 300 grit, etc. Up to
1500 grit sandpaper.

And if it is already fairly smooth, then I might start with say 600 grit
sandpaper. And just go back and forth a few times with the more coarse
grit paper - or you will sand it down to the size of a toothpick!

Sand a lot with the fine grit papers.

After sanding with the 1500 grit sandpaper, it is smooth as silk!

Then next I "burnish" the tip end of the shaft with a piece of leather.
Just get a piece of leather and rub it back and forth on the shaft until
it gets warm. This makes it yet smoother. You can go to a 2nd hand store
and buy an old leather ladie's "natural leather" purse (not dyed). Then
cut out a piece of leather about 4 inches square. Wrap the smooth side
around the shaft to burnish. (If the cashier at the 2nd hand store gives
you a funny look for buying a purse, just explain you bought new shoes
and need accessories to match! :-) )

The shaft will then slide through your bridge hand with no resistance.

Once the shaft is sanded, then I don't sand it again for maybe a year or
two. Avoid sanding if possible.

It does get "sticky" with use though. That is from oil on your fingers
getting on the shaft. I clean that off with a paper towel onto which I
pour a little 91% rubbing *** (lower percentage *** has more
water in it).

Then I dry that off with a clean paper towel. And then burnish with the
leather - then good as new again!

 
 
 

The shiny stuff

Post by Mark » Tue, 18 Sep 2012 23:41:55


Quote:
> I'm done with cleaning up an old wood cue stick.  Now what's the best clear
> coat?  Varnish?  Shellac?  Varathane?  Other?  And spray or brush?  I'd
> guess to prop it up in a safe place, and then spray in successive layers.
> But which clear coat would last the longest, and perform best for a pool
> cue?

> Steve

Lacquer.  Many coats of it.  Sand almost all the way through it at the
shaft once it's all done.

--> Mark0 <--

Get: Secrets to a Perfect Pool Table Recovering Job
http://www.mccauleyweb.com/secrets.htm
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The shiny stuff

Post by Steve » Thu, 20 Sep 2012 08:01:14


<lots of good stuff snipped>

Thanks, Bill.  Have filed your post, and will be referring to it quite a
bit.  I'm ready to send for several items for cue repair and maintenance.
Sheesh, it's amazing how fast one can burn up a hundred dollar bill these
days.

Steve