I have narrowed it down to two cues, McDermott M16A and M72A. Anyone have
any experience with these cues?
And what about McDermott G series? Does that inner shaft have a lot to do
> I have narrowed it down to two cues, McDermott M16A and M72A. Anyone have
> any experience with these cues?
> And what about McDermott G series? Does that inner shaft have a lot to do
> with performance?
Different cues do not have more or less "performance", rather they can
play differently. And the difference is with the shaft when shooting the
cue ball off center (using english).
(A good tip will "perform" better.)
This means you might need to aim differently using one cue (shaft)
rather than another when using english. It can take YEARS to learn how
to aim when using english - it is a BIG help to always play with the
same specification shaft/tip/tip shape. Then aiming will always be the
same. No "relearning" of aiming needed when shooting with english.
And this G-Core shaft seems to be "scientifically" manufactured. So if
your cue gets stolen or damaged, you could buy another with the same
shaft/tip/tip shape and it should play the same as your old cue. No
relearning how to shoot with english! A good thing.
And so far as "names" go, what impresses me about a player is when he
tells me what "name" [specification] shaft he has, knows the brand name
and hardness of his tip, and knows what shape he keeps his tip
(nickel/dime). (I could care less about what name is on the ***or what
the ***looks like.)
Years from now you may have one shot where you need to shoot in a ball
fast using high right english... To get the cue ball to travel all the
way forward, hit the rail, then come all the way back to the right. If
you have been using the *same* specification cue for many years, you
might just make that shot. And that one shot could win a tournament,
because the shot after that will be easy. If you had recently started
using a different cue/tip/shaft, chances are you would not pocket the
object ball. Simple as that!
Anyway shafts can be ordered with different components...
Joint - I prefer a metal to metal joint (Uni-Loc). I don't like metal to
Taper - I prefer a "Pro taper". The shaft is the same size basically for
the first many inches going back from the tip. This "slides" better
through my bridge fingers. A "Euro taper" is wedge shaped. Here are
Tip - I prefer Moori (layered pig skin), hard, dime shaped. A hard tip
will keep its shape longer.
Then the shaft itself. Pieces of wood "manufactured by mother nature"
will be different. "Engineered" shafts which incorporate man made
materials at the tip end will be consistent from shaft to shaft. So here
they are saying they use carbon fiber...
Following is a picture of a slice of a tree. Notice some tree rings are
close together and others further apart. Mother nature is not very
consistent in her manufacturing process!
Bottom line - Here is a high speed video of a shaft hitting a cue ball
off center (english). Notice it is a "battle" between the shaft and the
cue ball. The off center shot causes the cue ball to "deflect" a bit.
You can imagine that different shafts might make the cue ball deflect
more or less depending on the materials used to manufacture the shaft.
(Always using the same type shaft will allow you to learn [over many
years] how to aim for these shots.)
The following video concerns something different called "throw", however
it illustrates that depending on how you hit the cue ball, the object
ball may go different places. Over many years of playing pool, you can
learn to automatically adjust for these shots - if using the same cue.
The following video shows cue ball deflection. And also shows using a
Predator shaft. Note that I have seen many very good players who have
NOT ever used a low deflection shaft be able to make these shots. They
just learn over time. However if they get a new cue or new different
tip, then suddenly they start missing these shots - because the new cue
or tip plays differently...
4. cue choice
10. Shot Choice