> I'm cutting the 1-ball to the right (toward point B), so the cue ball
> is hitting left of center on the 1-ball.
Therein lies the nature of my misunderstanding -- I thought you meant that
you were aiming the CB at Point B. However, you meant you are aiming the
1-Ball at point B, across and to the RIGHT of the CB/1B centerline -- OF
COURSE (!), this requires a slight cut on the LEFT side of the 1B and the CB
would naturally rebound as you have shown.
Thanks to both Pat and Ron for showing me the "shining path" ... :-] , we
are now all in sync. This being said, Pat, with my own limited experience,
I agree with your observations on the ball action without reservation. I
will also add that I have both seen and been told that some of the more
accomplished players will hit this shot even very slightly more to the LEFT
with outside english -- the goal being (same as your own) to:
a. sink the 1B in the right side pocket;
b. sink one of the wing balls; or,
c. sink any other ball.
The outside spin doesn't change ANYTHING on this break except for the CB
path. The CB objective is to travel from the 1B back perpendicular to the
left side rail and, upon rail impact, having the spin open up the rebound
angle so that the CB travels diagonally back across the center area of the
table into the head half of the table.
This is because the wing ball pockets on the break far more often than any
other ball. Wih this type of side break, the 1B usually rebounds off of the
right side rail and goes somewhere into the head half of the table within a
couple of diamonds from the head-left pocket. The side spin on the CB just
helps to get it into position on the 1B with a hopefully decent return angle
back toward the foot half of the table, if necessary, in case a wing, or any
other, ball pockets on the break.
This presents another problem -- where is the NEXT ball (after the FIRST
ball)? I mean, what do you do if you actually MAKE the 1B (after all, this
IS part of the plan)? What if the 2B is frozen to the foot rail with
traffic between it and a CB you have so carefully placed in the head half of
the table. Or, in your own scenario, what happens if the 2B is over by the
foot-right corner pocket tied up behind 2 or 3 other balls and you have
successfully drawn the CB back to the position you diagrammed?
I only bring this up to say that neither your break (with the CB drawback to
the left) nor the same basic break with the outside spin on the CB is THE
ONE and only solution!!! The 9-Ball rack is supposedly put up in random.
This is usually true, although we all know that, in some cases, the rack
structure does get manipulated. It is almost impossible to put up two racks
in a row exactly the same. Under usual circumstances, it is even difficult
to get that "perfect tight rack" -- there is, more often than not, a ball
gap somewhere in the rack.
This now means that you must know what the action of ALL balls (or at least
the NEXT 2 or 3 balls) is going to be with the break. Joe Tucker's work can
help a GREAT DEAL with the various gap theories. Other than that, you just
have to figure out where the 2B will be from ANYWHERE in the rack if you
make the 1B on the break.
I think that, with your break, if the CB doesn't get bounced/kicked and
winds up in accordance with your plan, you're in good position to shoot at
the 1B if you made a wing ball on the break. Likewise with the other break,
but the CB is vulnerable to being kicked here, too. The determining factor
of which of these breaks you use should be where your SECOND SHOT ball will
likely wind up after you break!!!
Also, having pre-spotted your second shot ball in the rack, there may be
some break solution necessary, OTHER than what has already been discussed
here, to insure that BOTH of your first two shots are not tied up if you
sink a ball on the break. Sometimes, simply due to rack structure, ball
gaps due to old and unevenly sized balls, poor cloth, loose and inadequate
ball rack and a host of other conditions, it is just impossible to avoid
Under any of these circumstances, I just give up on all the fancy breaks. I
just set the CB on the midpoint of the headstring, smash the CB with about
3/4-tip center-top spin directly at the center of the CB and hope for the
best. This head-on center rack hit will ALWAYS give the farthest overall
total ball movement, but it's either a run-out or a sell-out ... ;-> .
However, when, and possibly "because," nothing else seems to be working, I
almost always get a ball or two on this break. The top spin on the CB
causes it to bore back through the middle of the rack, spread more balls and
keep it in the foot half of the table where, on this particular break, the
1B should be located, having been pinned FORWARD by the CB's action upon
As far as manipulation is concerned, and although this may not necessarily
be true, in my own semi-experienced mind, logic pretty much says that the 2
balls in the 4th row (i.e., just behind the 9B) in the rack will nearly
always wind up around the bottom (foot) of the table. So, if I know you're
going to break as you outlined, I'm putting the 2B on the right side of the
4th row, as viewed from the head of the table. The rest of the balls don't
matter because, if I can't shortstop you here, no amount of manipulation is
going to help with the rest of the balls -- only luck or opponent's
inability will help from here.
But, I quit manipulating a long time ago -- I just wait for my chance at the
table, which normally WILL come, no matter what my opponent's speed is. I
have only been 6-packed once in my lifetime and 5-racked only one other
time. Even in a short race to 7, this is acceptable to me.
Sorry about the ramble, you just brought up some decent thoughts to me.
Oak Harbor, WA