> I'm not too sure what type of crank nut semcycles have, but if the
> The nut is just to retain the cotter pin and does not add extra tension
> to it. To tighten a cotter pin, the pin should be tapped with a small
> hammer from the opposite side to the retainer nut. The nut should then
> be tightened (taking up the slack). Then tap the pin in again and
> tighten the nut, Repeat until the pin can no longer be tightened.
pin while applying slight pressure to the wrench turning the nut.
> Just wanting to verify my terminology (I know what I'm talking about but
> do you?), the pedal is attached to the crank which is fixed to an axle which
> connects to the other peddle. The cotter pin can be clearly seen (if it
should be crank
This sentence is wrong
should be crank
A cottered axle has a single flat spot on each end and no threads. A cottered
crank has a round hole where it mounts on the axle.
> Surprisingly enough a cotterless crank possess no such pin. The crank is
> affixed to the axle by a hexagonal fixing or so I believe, but I'm sure
> there are many of you out there will put me right if I'm wrong.
The axle is threaded on the end and uses a large 14mm nut.
The cotterless crank arm has a chamfered square hole in the same plane as
the pedal hole.
> It is commonly believed that cotterless cranks are better than those with
> cotter pins because cranks without cotter pins are less likely to slacken.
> Personally I've had no problem with the cotter pins on my first unicycle
> (a Pashley, boo hiss) which went through much abuse, and I suspect that
> people may dislike cotter pins because they were unaware of how to
> correctly tighten them. However I dare say my defence of cotter pins
> would dramatically change if I ever had a unicycle which had ever
> loosening cranks. I guess what I'm trying to say is that its a personal
> choice if you want to avoid cotter pins. Personally I've had no problem
> with them.
re weight and riding style. Cotter pins are soft, provide only one surface
to bear the entire twisting torque, and tend to elongate the crank arm hole
over time. On my big wheel, I have to replace my cotter pins at least
Selecting a uni is like anything else you buy. You need to ask how are you
are going to use it and if you can appreciate a good one. If you are the type
that would buy a $130 bicycle at Kmart, then a <$100 uni will probably do
you just fine. (The $65 price someone quoted for a CyclePro is a steal
as they are selling for $90 here.) No one serious about unicycling would
buy such a uni except as a novelty just like a serious biker would never
buy a $130 bike. You get what you pay for. Every unicycle I would recommend
has cotterless cranks.
Another kind of nut